Throttle cable/ Exhaust Clearance

[Jim P]

I've searched the forums but am at a loss...

I'm installing the throttle cable for an injected XP-360-M1 (Precision ,horizontal), and am using Van's bracket that bolts to the bottom of the sump. I've installed the exhust shield but about the best I can do is 1/4" between the crossover exhause pipe and the cable (currently without fire sleeve).

Any suggestions?

Jim

[gmcjetpilot]

More room the merrier, but sounds like you know what I'll say, cover the throttle cable with a fire sleeve and put a heat shield on the exhaust pipe. With out seeing it, is re-route possible may be w/ a longer throttle cable? Forget the Van bracket? Call the manufacture of the cable. Ask what the temp limits are. Not all "Teleflex" control cables are the same.

The "teleflex" cable is generically metal wire in a spiral wrapped metal outer shield. Some have plastic dust shield and some times also inner liners. I became familiar with teleflex cables on my old twin. It had very long cables that got stiff and needed lubrication, time to time. The ones on the twin did not have a cover and you could lube the outer cable by spraying the outside. The oil soaked through the spiral wound shield to the control cable. It was a nightmare, but after lots of "mouse milk" and working the prop, mix & throttle, they moved freely again.

Reading some info: "cables with lubricant, operate from -40°F (-40°C) to +210°F (99°C). For operation at temperatures up to a maximum of +300°F (150°C) consult the Teleflex Morse Engineering Department. High temperature conduit is available." (May be you need some high temp conduit?)

Ref: http://www.teleflexmorse.com/CableControls.html

There are high temp push pull cables.

[WilburD2]

Jim, the way you describe the problem, no matter what you're trying the natural flex of the cable isnt allowing more than your 1/4 in. clearance. How many other brackets between the firewall and the one on the sump? Have you tried flexing it close to another structural member, zip tying it in place to that member, checked the freedom of movement, and found one close to working? If not, try that. Once you find that point, it would be the simple matter of creating another bracket and/or using proper sized adel clamps to hold it in the new position.