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  #1  
Old 11-14-2007, 09:50 PM
kevinh's Avatar
kevinh kevinh is offline
 
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Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 1,419
Default Minimum brake pad thickness

Hi ya'll,

Anyone have the specs handy for the minimum thickness on Cleveland brake pads like on our RVs? I'm trying to figure out if I need to replace my pads.

I'd look it up myself but my Cleveland documents are in an inaccessible box.
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  #2  
Old 11-15-2007, 05:26 AM
mrreddick mrreddick is offline
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Location: Hangar/home at Hicks Airfield (T67), Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 627
Default Time To Replace Your Brake Pads?

How about using a flashlight and mirror and inspecting for the depth of the wear indicator? If you can't see the slot in the pad you better be changing them really soon before you wear them down too thin and your puck comes out. Makes a real mess and is not fun to clean up, and then it requires servicing and bleeding your brakes.
A preflight inspection of your brake pads will prevent a lot of headaches. If you're looking for an exact measurement, good luck with that!
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RV6A N167CW 1,900 HRS
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Last edited by Rosie : 11-15-2007 at 09:11 AM.
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  #3  
Old 11-15-2007, 05:30 PM
dmeloche dmeloche is offline
 
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Posts: 99
Default

I'm pretty sure it's 3/32"

Doug
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  #4  
Old 11-15-2007, 06:04 PM
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Wallbangar Wallbangar is offline
 
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Location: Round Rock, Tx.
Posts: 124
Default min brake lpad thickness

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrreddick View Post
How about using a flashlight and mirror and inspecting for the depth of the wear indicator? If you can't see the slot in the pad you better be changing them really soon before you wear them down too thin and your puck comes out. Makes a real mess and is not fun to clean up, and then it requires servicing and bleeding your brakes.
A preflight inspection of your brake pads will prevent a lot of headaches. If you're looking for an exact measurement, good luck with that!

Just changed my tires. While my back was turned, working on the tire, with pads removed, my puck came out and U know what a mess. Had about 175 hours on the pucks. Wish I had checked closer...........What a mess. CHECK EM CLOSELY....................
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  #5  
Old 11-15-2007, 07:22 PM
Bob Axsom Bob Axsom is offline
 
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Posts: 5,685
Default If You have to ask - Replace Them

Especially if you are flying an "A" model, error on the side of wasted pads. I replace mine every year at annual condition inspection - I order them from ACS ahead of time. I experienced the ground spinning event one time when the pads got too thin, broke the O-ring seal and leaked the brake fluid out on the ramp. I do not ever want to repeat it. If there had been an airplane tied down on my left I would have done significant damage to both of them. The castering nosewheel airplanes are very vulnerable to brake failures.

Bob Axsom
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  #6  
Old 11-15-2007, 09:38 PM
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chrispratt chrispratt is offline
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Default Brake pad wear

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrreddick View Post
How about using a flashlight and mirror and inspecting for the depth of the wear indicator?
If your pads are the originals included with the Cleveland brakes then they may not have a wear indicator. Mine didn't. I found this out the hard way. When you buy replacement pads be sure to get ones that have wear indicators. For example, the RAPCO replacements have a notch in the edge that you can see during visual inspection of the brake. Once the notch is gone you should replace the pads. I got the RAPCO pads from Aircraft Spruce. At the time, (late 2006) their price was substantially under Van's if you bought enough pads for a couple of changes.

Chris
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  #7  
Old 11-15-2007, 10:19 PM
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kevinh kevinh is offline
 
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrispratt View Post
If your pads are the originals included with the Cleveland brakes then they may not have a wear indicator.
Chris
Yep - mine did not have the wear indicator (original pads). I'll replace em anyway, even though I have a fair amount more than 3/32"

Thanks all.

Kevin
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  #8  
Old 11-16-2007, 08:55 AM
mrreddick mrreddick is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrispratt View Post
If your pads are the originals included with the Cleveland brakes then they may not have a wear indicator. Mine didn't. I found this out the hard way. When you buy replacement pads be sure to get ones that have wear indicators. For example, the RAPCO replacements have a notch in the edge that you can see during visual inspection of the brake. Once the notch is gone you should replace the pads. I got the RAPCO pads from Aircraft Spruce. At the time, (late 2006) their price was substantially under Van's if you bought enough pads for a couple of changes.

Chris
FYI,

I buy the kit from Van's because I usually am ordering something and have them throw that it so I'll have them when I need them. Over the last four years the pads supplied by Van's have always had the notch in them.
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  #9  
Old 11-16-2007, 11:18 AM
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gmcjetpilot gmcjetpilot is offline
 
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Posts: 4,580
Default When in doubt CHANGE THEM

Trust me I learned the hard way. Don't be cheap change them if you thing "may be they are too thin".

They don't cost much and are easy to change. Of course by the cheap rivet tool.

What happens is the puck extends further and further to activate the brakes and eventually there is not very much in the calliper housing. It is very easy for it to get slightly cocked and stick closed. The result is major brake drag, especially when the brakes are hot. Just change them.

After jamming you run the risk of what Bob A said: "I experienced the ground spinning event one time when the pads got too thin, broke the O-ring seal and leaked the brake fluid out on the ramp."

Preventative maintence is worth it.
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Last edited by gmcjetpilot : 11-16-2007 at 11:21 AM.
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