Do It Yourself; Complying With The Nose Wheel SB

Geico266 · #1 11-13-2007, 06:02 AM

I would like to start a thread specifically for doing the nose gear modification yourself. For those of us that can turn a wrenh and run a cut off saw I think this mod is a doable project right in the hanger.

1. Order Parts. You'll need either the new style front fork, new style front gear or both depending on the year of your "A" model RV. You'll need to figure out which by reading the web site or calling Vans. It's easy. Make sure the parts are all here before you start to minimize down time. http://www.vansaircraft.com/index.htm

2. Order a threading die. This is tough material so IMHO don't order just a thread chasing nut. Sources for the die sould be coming up later in this thread.

3. Jack up the plane (securly) so you can work on the nose wheel.

4. Remove Wheel Pants, Wheel, & Old Fork.

5. Remove gear from aircraft. Threading is going to be a fairly tough job requiring a stable / secure vise to hold the gear while you are threading.

I plan on using a 3+" threading die and a big 3-4' die handle. I see no reason why a guy could not thread the shaft another 1" (or what ever the measurement is) and cut off the part that we need to get rid of with a sawsall.

pierre smith · #2 11-13-2007, 11:33 AM

Hi Larry/everybody,
I spoke with Harmon Lange (Langair) this morning and he told me that he was surprised that anybody could thread that gear leg by hand since it's 6150 Chrome vanadium, hardened to Rockwell 44. He went on to say that it is the most user unfriendly steel he's worked with, and he said that a die would more than likely "tear" at the metal, even a split, adjustable die, so they use a milling machine with a very hard cutter. He also said that if someone messes up the threads trying to do their own, don't send it to him.

Don't shoot the messenger,

plehrke · #3 11-13-2007, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierre smith

Hi Larry/everybody,
I spoke with Harmon Lange (Langair) this morning and he told me ......

Did he say how he does it? Does he remove the heat treat, cut the threads, and then re-heat treat? Would not fault him if he does not say how he does it as it is his livelyhood.

If you cut your own threads make sure you remove the stress risers at the end of the newly cut threads.

pierre smith · #4 11-13-2007, 12:05 PM

........how he does it specifically but it is a vertical milling machine as I recall and uses a very hard titanium carbide (I don't recall exactly what metal) or similar cutter. He said that he thought some EAA chapters might buy the cutters at around $150 each and do several airplanes. I mentioned that some EAA chapters don't have several tri-gear RV's. He also said that if you did in fact thread it that it is very hard to cut off the bottom end of the strut as well.

He doesn't have many takers yet, either.

tomwebster · #5 11-13-2007, 12:26 PM

I am waiting to remove my gear leg for a few more weeks.
There may be some more good flying weather in Ohio.
I'll decide who modifies the leg at that time.

As an input, I emailed Langair about my nose gear leg
stiffener. They answered that if it was in the way, they
would remove it and send it back with the modified gear
leg.

Important: They thought if I wanted to reuse it, it would be
better if I removed it before shipping.

Tom

Allan Stern · #6 11-13-2007, 12:51 PM

I have 8 hours to fly off of my 40 and about that time I will be due for my annual. I have ordered the new fork part from Van's and will send the gear leg to the company for modification. So when I do the annual I will take care of all changes that need to be done.

Geico266 · #7 11-13-2007, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierre smith

Hi Larry/everybody,
I spoke with Harmon Lange (Langair) this morning and he told me that he was surprised that anybody could thread that gear leg by hand since it's 6150 Chrome vanadium, hardened to Rockwell 44. He went on to say that it is the most user unfriendly steel he's worked with, and he said that a die would more than likely "tear" at the metal, even a split, adjustable die, so they use a milling machine with a very hard cutter. He also said that if someone messes up the threads trying to do their own, don't send it to him.

Don't shoot the messenger,

Rockwell 44 while hard, is not as hard as a threading die around Rockwell 65. I know of others (on this web site) who have done it themselves, but I'm all ears when it comes to advice on how to do it. That's why I started the thread.

pierre smith · #8 11-14-2007, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geico266

Rockwell 44 while hard, is not as hard as a threading die around Rockwell 65. I know of others (on this web site) who have done it themselves, but I'm all ears when it comes to advice on how to do it. That's why I started the thread.

You're right. I had a machinist come by this morning and looked at it. He asked for a file and promptly cut a small vee in the end of the nosegear on the threaded end and said, "Bring it to me and I'll thread it for you. It's not harder than a die." What was the die size again?

Regards,

Bruce Reynolds · #9 11-14-2007, 09:04 AM

While the threading die may be harder than the gear leg, the steel in the leg is tough. To illustrate the difference between hard and tough; we all have had a tough steak that we can't chew through, but it was not hard.

Bruce Reynolds
RV-6A 470 hours
(on grass)

db1yg · #10 11-14-2007, 10:30 AM

Hi Larry (aka Geico266),

Reference you comment about leaving the gear on the leg to cut the threads: I tried my best to do just that but could not find a way to adequately stabilze the leg--nor did it allow me to get in a position to apply sufficient torque to my 2' die fixture to be able to cut the threads--maybe you can figure a better way but I punted and pulled the leg, blocked it up tight in a vise (wood blocks) and secured the other end to the bench. This way I was able to "point" the threaded portion up and gave me the best angle to apply torque to the fixture. I have to say it was not easy but after about an hour (I took a couple of short breaks), 2 or 3 passes with the adjustable threader and a lot of cutting oil I had the extra 1 inch of threads needed. The excess leg was cut off with a metal cutting band saw like you can purchase from Harbor Freight--the kind that has the pivoting cutting head so the blade can be either vertical or horizontal--I think they call them electric hack saws--took the saw about 3 minutes in the horizontal position.

Good luck!!

Cheers,

db