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11-11-2007, 06:12 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Huskerland, USA
Posts: 5,862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petehowell
Hi Dave ,
It looks like a 1.25-16 thread. Where did you find that animal? - Thanks.
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Are you sure that is the die needed for the end of the nose gear? All I can find is 1.25 X 12 TPI (Threads Per Inch) as a standard.
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RV-7 : In the hangar
RV-10 : In the hangar
RV-12 : Built and sold
RV-44 : 4 place helicopter on order.
Last edited by Geico266 : 11-11-2007 at 06:29 AM.
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11-11-2007, 08:49 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Chesterfield, Missouri
Posts: 4,514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertahegy
I sent an e-mail to Van's requesting that info also. You new style people should have that info. Does the new fork eliminate the need to secure the pant with the axle bolt?
Roberta
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I bought the new part some time ago but have not installed it. It is similar to the old part except it has a slot forward so it can be slid over the axle bolt, no need to remove the axle to remove the fairing.
I will look for the kit later today and post the part number.
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RV-12 Build Helper
RV-7A...Sold #70374
The RV-8...Sold #83261
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11-11-2007, 10:08 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Chesterfield, Missouri
Posts: 4,514
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The nose wheel pant brackets that provide for removing the pant without removing the axle bolt, are
U-713C-L and U-713C-R ($14.65 each as of 5/19/07) The drawing of this installation is DWG C-3 ($3).
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RV-12 Build Helper
RV-7A...Sold #70374
The RV-8...Sold #83261
I'm in, dues paid 2019 This place is worth it!
Last edited by David-aviator : 11-11-2007 at 10:20 AM.
Reason: DWG C-3 not C-1
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11-11-2007, 11:14 AM
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Moderator/Tech Counselor
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: East Troy, WI
Posts: 1,983
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I think that is the way to go. Thread it yourself. I can see where the old brackets should work. Just the front of the fork is different. Cool. This should be fairly simple to do. Leave the old leg in place and machine in place. I like that. Minimal down time, too.
I slotted my original brackets, too, and was always able to remove the pant while the wheel stayed on.
Well, I guess I'm in this game.
Roberta
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Roberta Hegy
Built/Flew an RV-7A
Air Troy Estates, East Troy, WI
Ford Expedition and TRICE "Q"
Built Glen L "ZIP" Classic Outboard Runabout and Super Spartan Hydroplane
Glen L Torpedo
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11-11-2007, 12:05 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
Posts: 5,666
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Yea but..
Once you loosen the axle bolt you really need to take the weight off the wheel to torque it back up, so if you need to do this anyway, why bother with the slotted bracket 
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Walt Aronow, DFW, TX (52F)
EXP Aircraft Services LLC
Specializing in RV Condition Inspections, Maintenance, Avionics Upgrades
Dynamic Prop Balancing, Pitot-Static Altmeter/Transponder Certification
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RV7A built 2004, 1700+ hrs, New Titan IO-370, Bendix Mags
Website: ExpAircraft.com, Email: walt@expaircraft.com, Cell: 972-746-5154
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11-11-2007, 02:10 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertahegy
I think that is the way to go. Thread it yourself. I can see where the old brackets should work. Just the front of the fork is different. Cool. This should be fairly simple to do. Leave the old leg in place and machine in place. I like that. Minimal down time, too.
I slotted my original brackets, too, and was always able to remove the pant while the wheel stayed on.
Well, I guess I'm in this game.
Roberta
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Roberta,
I also thought about doing the work with the leg still on the plane. Given the amount of torque needed to turn the threader coupled with the flexing of the gear leg I just could not get it done on the plane so I punted and pulled the leg and blocked it up tight in a large vise---also locked down the other end of the leg on the bench. Let us know if you find a good way to stabilize the leg on the plane.
Good luck!!
Cheers,
db
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Dave B.
RV9a/ECiIO360/James Cowl/WW RV200 Prop
Flying since 3/06 and still smiling!!!
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11-11-2007, 03:14 PM
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Moderator/Tech Counselor
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: East Troy, WI
Posts: 1,983
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Hi Walt,
Definitely need to jack the plane up to properly tighten the axle bolt, but slotting the rear brackets allows you to assemble the wheel and bearings, then leave some space to pop the brackets over the bolt.
Hi DB,
I'll have to see if the wing jacks and anchoring the tail is stable enough. I guess an 1-1/8" die may be quite a pull. Hopefully running the die up the existing threads will help keep things stable.
Roberta
__________________
Roberta Hegy
Built/Flew an RV-7A
Air Troy Estates, East Troy, WI
Ford Expedition and TRICE "Q"
Built Glen L "ZIP" Classic Outboard Runabout and Super Spartan Hydroplane
Glen L Torpedo
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11-11-2007, 04:06 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 241
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Validatation of the die size?
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertahegy
Hi Walt,
I guess an 1-1/8" die may be quite a pull. Hopefully running the die up the existing threads will help keep things stable.
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Hi Roberta
Might be worth checking your nose wheel leg OD size. Our 'pre 2005' leg thread is 1 1/4", 16TPI.
I think it is "National Extra Fine", 60 degree included angle.
I talked to Langair a while back and he confirmed he mills the additional thread on with carbide thread milling tools on a rotating head CNC machine. I'm hoping like you to be able to modify my leg locally - our shipping from NZ and back will make the purchase of a new leg and fork look cheap.... I've been unable to find a supplier / manufacture of 1.25", 16TPI dies as yet - please let us all know when someone finds a specific supplier / costs.
I wonder if one of the forum suppliers could get a group buy going for button dies?
Regards,
Carl (rather deflated after getting soooo close to be ready for airport move / first flight)
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http://www.rvproject.gen.nz/
TMX OF-360 (FADEC), Dual GRT H1, Garmin 430 / SL30 / 327, TT VSVG
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11-11-2007, 04:34 PM
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Moderator/Tech Counselor
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: East Troy, WI
Posts: 1,983
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You're right, Carl!! I must be getting crosseyed. I may just go ahead and buy the leg, as well.
Roberta
__________________
Roberta Hegy
Built/Flew an RV-7A
Air Troy Estates, East Troy, WI
Ford Expedition and TRICE "Q"
Built Glen L "ZIP" Classic Outboard Runabout and Super Spartan Hydroplane
Glen L Torpedo
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11-11-2007, 09:22 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southeast
Posts: 569
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Here's a link to a source I found for the 1-1/4" x 16 tpi die:
Victor Machinery, Brooklyn,NY.
http://www.victornet.com/
Click on: TAPS, DIES, THREADING TOOLS
It's listed in the section: Special Pitch Dies, 1-3/16" and Larger. They sell for $40.10 each.
Hope this helps,
Mike
Last edited by alcladrv : 11-11-2007 at 09:27 PM.
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