Carburetor needed!!! Should I panic?

RV7AAAAAAA · #1 11-09-2007, 06:49 PM

I have got a freshly rebuilt 0-320-E2A waiting to be installed in my RV7A.
However, I don't have a carburetor. I was going to wait until the last minute to get one. But after hearing the news about no new carbs being mfg. and reading other posts. I have decided that I am going to panic now! and buy a caburetor ASAP
But first I need help with the following question:
1. Which carburetor do I buy?
2. Where to buy? - (Please help me not to get ripped off)
3. How do the Marvel-Schebler p/n's work? i.e. the lycoming engine guide states) 0320-E2A same as 0320-A3B except has a -32 carb. What does the -32 mean?
My 0320-E2A has been converted to 160 h.p. Does that change my carburetor needs. Any help would be appreciated
Thanks Jim Kirks
RV7A slowly building tip up canopy, wiring and carburetor

LifeofReiley · #2 11-09-2007, 07:02 PM

You'll be fine...

Check with Mike,

Mike's Aircraft Fuel Metering Service
9406 E 46th St N
Tulsa, OK 74117

(918) 838-6217

He can also help with your HP/Fuel question.

N941WR · #3 11-09-2007, 07:25 PM

Jim,

I can't help you with the dash number for your carb but I can tell you how I found the proper carb for my O-290-D2.

Every place I called said they didn't have one and wished me luck. Just when I was about to give up and buy an Ellison Throttle Body Injector the hurricane hit New Orleans. After seeing an airboat run down one of the streets I did a search on "Airboat" "Lycoming" "Florida" and found Outlaw Aircraft Engines. They and the proper carb on the shelf with a fresh airboat overhaul. It cost me $500 and I then sent it off to AVStar Aircraft Accessories in Jupiter, FL for a proper aviation overhaul / yellow tag.

Total cost was in line with the cost of a new carb.

LifeofReiley · #4 11-09-2007, 07:44 PM

The best fit would be an MA4SPA 10-5009 Precision Carb.

airguy · #5 11-09-2007, 07:53 PM

Why not just go FI and avoid the whole issue?

RV7AAAAAAA · #6 11-09-2007, 09:35 PM

Darrell Riley Thanks for the quick response (13 minutes) I'll call Mike Monday. You're probably right about the 10-5009 carb, but I believe mine came originally with a 10-3678-32, curious what the difference is. Maybe Mike will know.

Bill Thanks for the info. Will call Outlaw A/C Engs. also.

Greg Too far into it now to switch to FI. I'm plumbed for carb. w/ new mechanical and electrical fuel pump. In hind sight should have gone FI.

Thanks guys
Jim

rgbewley · #7 11-11-2007, 08:08 AM

Mike sold his shop, but it is still in operation. You should also check with Aircraft Accessories of OklahomA (918) 835-9924 or Quality Aircraft Accessories (918) 835-6948, both in Tulsa. No need to worry about availability of overhauled units, just new.

penguin · #8 11-11-2007, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RV7AAAAAAA

Darrell Riley Thanks for the quick response (13 minutes) I'll call Mike Monday. You're probably right about the 10-5009 carb, but I believe mine came originally with a 10-3678-32, curious what the difference is. Maybe Mike will know.

Bill Thanks for the info. Will call Outlaw A/C Engs. also.

Greg Too far into it now to switch to FI. I'm plumbed for carb. w/ new mechanical and electrical fuel pump. In hind sight should have gone FI.

Thanks guys
Jim

The carb that came with your engine from the factory is not necessarily the best one for your RV-7. Van's airboxes flow much more air than a Cessna airbox, so a larger main jet is often required to keep the CHTs down in the climb. I would try to find some one who has experience of setting up a carb for an RV. When I took my E2D up to 160hp I had to increase the main jet size by 0.007" (to 0.104"), but I think it should have been half way there already. I don't have any data for the before case so can't offer any advice.

Pete