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  #1  
Old 11-07-2007, 10:20 PM
Brambo Brambo is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Boulder City
Posts: 179
Default Electrical Wiring

I'm deep in the middle of wiring and was wondering if anyone has a good example of how to tie down the wires going through the center tunnel so that they stay clear of the push rod. Pictures would be great.

Bill Rambo
RV-7A
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  #2  
Old 11-08-2007, 07:20 AM
Steve Steve is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Roy, Utah
Posts: 1,141
Default Radio Shack

I used those white peel-and-stick pads from Radio Shack. They're about 3/4" square and you loop a wire tie through the eyelets. A 10 pak costs about $3.00 Remove any primer/paint from the area. They stick well so be sure about location. Put a row of 3-4 along the center floor ribs. Good to go.

Steve
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  #3  
Old 11-08-2007, 07:47 AM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
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Exclamation Long term...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve View Post
I used those white peel-and-stick pads from Radio Shack. They're about 3/4" square and you loop a wire tie through the eyelets. A 10 pak costs about $3.00 Remove any primer/paint from the area. They stick well so be sure about location. Put a row of 3-4 along the center floor ribs. Good to go.

Steve
Steve, long term, the stick-um on the foam has been known to let go... especially if you live on a hot part of the country.

If you can, the use of a pop rivet through the hole in the center of the plastic will give you a much better long term solution....

In the location in question, an angle drill should be able to do this....

gil A
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  #4  
Old 11-08-2007, 09:05 AM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
Steve, long term, the stick-um on the foam has been known to let go... especially if you live on a hot part of the country.

If you can, the use of a pop rivet through the hole in the center of the plastic will give you a much better long term solution....

In the location in question, an angle drill should be able to do this....

gil A
I agree with Gil. Only in place of a rivet, I used Goop's RV Adhesive to hold them in place after removing the stick-um and foam adhesive pad. Yep, they make stuff just for our planes.

I'm not a fan of their web site but here it is: http://www.amazinggoop.com/amazinggoop/index.html
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Last edited by N941WR : 11-08-2007 at 09:10 AM.
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  #5  
Old 11-08-2007, 09:22 AM
scottg scottg is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Long Island
Posts: 54
Default

Wire routing is covered in AC 43-13. I recently wired the tunnel of a 10 and secured the wires with adel clamps as follows:

1. #8 c'sunk screw, head on the cabin side
2. dimpled the tunnel
3. made a c'sunk washer out of .063 plate, cut into a circle, drilled #19 and c'sunk
4. Adel clamp
5. Nut and Washer


The installation sequence is screw, tunnel, c'sunk washer, adel clamp, washer, nut. If the wires look like they may chaff on the tunnel side, the adel clamp can be spaced out with a longer screw and short piece of aluminum tubing, additional washers or .063 spacers.

The self adhesive wire tie mounts have a tendence to fail. The last thing I'd want is wires swinging freely around primary flight controls and / or chaffing in an environment where fuel vapor may be present.

If your question is not related to the ten, the above would also work as long as you install platenuts on the ribs prior to installing the seat /baggage floors. The installation would then be round head screw, adel clamp, rib and finally platenut. Another option, if the platenut is not possible is to use plastic wire clamps. They are similar to an adel clamp, only smaller. These can be secured with a blind rivet.

http://www.smallparts.com/products/descriptions/ccn.cfm

Last edited by scottg : 11-08-2007 at 01:10 PM.
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  #6  
Old 11-08-2007, 10:36 AM
Brambo Brambo is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Boulder City
Posts: 179
Default

Thanks for all the good ideas. I have some of the plastic stck-on things but was warry of using them here in Las Vegas (very hot). The rivet idea sounds like a good way to make sure they stay put. The small nylon ties with a rivet also sounds doable.

Thanks all,

Bill Rambo
RV-7A
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  #7  
Old 11-08-2007, 11:07 AM
Pilottonny Pilottonny is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Belgium
Posts: 645
Default Rivet them?

Hello,

I am at that stage to! I already got some of the plastic-stick-on thingies with my last order from Steinair, especially for that location! It is usually not that hot where I Live, but I plan to fly south, where it will be 30-40?C. So I guess, after reading your posts about the ?darn things? coming off when it gets hot, I could just rivet them to the fuselage floor instead of the "sticky-back-tape"? Has anybody done that?

Regards, PilotTonny
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  #8  
Old 11-08-2007, 09:58 PM
Jekyll Jekyll is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 625
Default

I had sticky tie strap mounts fall off after a month in the garage. Removed the tape, used E6000 goop and those suckers are as good as riveted on. I rough up both surfaces with 80 grit before adding the goop.

Jekyll
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  #9  
Old 11-08-2007, 11:57 PM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,408
Default Click bond

Expensive, but wont fall off.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo.../clickbond.php
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  #10  
Old 11-09-2007, 05:47 AM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dayton, NV
Posts: 12,245
Default Space Quality.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike S View Post
I recently had a refresher course in on-orbit maintenance for the International Space Station, and we now have Click-Bonds in the tool kit to hold repair patches to the outer skin (if we ever need them!). It was emphasized that you better get them in the right spot the first time, cause you're never going to gt them, off.....

A bit too expensive for my RV, but pretty neat adhesive technology!

Paul
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