Quick tip up build questions

RickWoodall · #1 10-18-2007, 08:11 AM

Anybody able to give me a quick answer on the cs4 pop rivets to wd716 frame? There is a line of pops rivets that holds the 702 skin to the thin tube across the wd 716. We have drilled the holes in the wd, and the skin is drilled and dimpled to 1/8 for a flush finish on the skin. The issue is the small tube that now i guess requires countersinking. The tube is small and to now countersink, and then squeeze in pop rivets along that just doesnt seem like the right thing to do? Am I missing something. Again, ONLY the line of cs4's all the way across the top skin attaching to the tube on the wd716. Thanks for any clarification before I do something goofy.

kentb · #2 10-18-2007, 11:21 AM

It won't need much, but you want the dimpled skin to set down into the tube. Another point at this time is that the skin will not fit all the way across the tube. The outboard hole (or maybe two holes) can't be riveted without making the skin fit poorly. I used fiberglass to build up under this area without using rivets.

Maybe Vans is making better parts now and this won't be necessary.

Kent

RV7Guy · #3 10-18-2007, 12:52 PM

As Kent noted you can't the outer 2 or 3 without distorting the skin. I also built filled the gap with microfiller and epoxy and made a nice fillet for the visual.

Regarding attaching the skin, the CS4-4's have a very thin head. I simply used the deburring tool and countersunk the skin for the 4-4's. This worked great. I wasn't comfortable attempting to countersink on a round surface.

RickWoodall · #4 10-18-2007, 01:31 PM

Hey Darwin, can you clarify.
I understand the 2 rivets on the bend of the weldment and not pulling those and screwing up the skin, but did you dimple the skin for the cs4 with 1/8 dies, and then just use the debur tool to spin a little divot in the bar, or are you saying you just used the debur tool on the skin and didnt to a thing to the round stock? Its a goofy set up and i want to finish is off nicely...just thinking the debur tool on the bar is the way to go. Certainly cant see spinning the cs cage on the thin roundstock...to easy to mess up.
Thanks for the help.

RV7Guy · #5 10-18-2007, 01:41 PM

Hi Rick,

You got it. I chucked up the deburring tool in a cordless drill and countersunk until the head was close to flush. When you squeeze it will pull it down nicely. You can test to get your comfort level. The only thing I did to the round bar was drill and deburr.

To me, trying to countersink the small round bar was like pushing a rope, just isn't that easy. I abandon the idea after testing the countersink deal.

Rivethead · #6 10-18-2007, 01:48 PM

You and I are at exactly the same point. I'll be attaching that skin later today. I counter sunk the holes and decided to go back and hit them with a fine half round file to get the skin to lay down just a bit better, being careful not to open the #30 hole up. After finishing I plan to go back with some Pro Seal and fillet with that. After reading this thread I'll not be using the outer most rivets.