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10-18-2007, 02:58 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 2,900
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Do it
Hi Mike,
I have my hangar and garage epoxy coated in grey. I had mine professionally done with an industrial epoxy (not water based). The durability was important because I was going to be building. I paid a buck 40 a sq ft. Things are a little slower now and you can probably get a better deal. Whoever you get, make sure they are licensed and use a non water based product. There are a lot of fly-by-nighters out there.
A couple of my neighbors have used the Home Depot stuff with terrible results. It just won't take, dropping tools and the wear and tear when you are building. Both will have to have it redone when their projects are completed. This is pay now or pay later situation.
Another tip is to NOT get a finish with any multicolored speckles in it. Dropping a screw, nut or washer can turn into a search that will rival the one for Jimmy Hoffa.
__________________
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
www.JDair.com
RV-7 N717EE-Flying (Sold)
RV-7 N717AZ Flying, in paint
EMS Bell 407,
Eurocopter 350 A-Star Driver
Last edited by RV7Guy : 10-18-2007 at 03:00 PM.
Reason: spelling
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10-18-2007, 03:11 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Anthem, Az
Posts: 168
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Had problems with the Rust O leum Product
I did my garage in Illinois using the RustOleum Epoxy kit, and was not happy with the results. The epoxy would stain, most noticeable was the tire rubber from the autos. I had my garage in Arizona done professionally, and the results were much better.
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10-18-2007, 03:51 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Nampa, ID
Posts: 231
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I agree that the non water based stuff is a lot more durable. If I had a real shop building or hanger, I would definitely spring for the professional results. I had some problems with the hot tire marks with the home depot Behr stuff. We'll see how the Rust-Oleum brand holds up.
__________________
A&P
RV-7 (Sold)
RV-6 (Sold)
1952 Cessna 170B
1947 Aeronca Chief
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10-19-2007, 09:44 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 105
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I did my garage floor with some industrial Benjamin moore 2part solvent based epoxy.
It turned out really good. I don't baby that floor at all, and it holds up really well.
In the picture, it may not look that good, but all that stuff is just dirt. A quick sweeping, and hose down, and it looks like new.
Would I do it again? YES!
http://bp1.blogger.com/_RlMMJxNXmxY/...28Large%29.JPG
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10-19-2007, 10:05 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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Litex
I used a water based 2 part epoxy that used to be sold by Home Depot in my workshop.
http://www.litexinc.com/2PART-EPOXY.html
It's now a direct purchase from the manufacturer.
It has held up well (5 years), but no car tires are present in the workshop....
Other airpark hangar owners painted their floors with it in a "quickie" fashion with no real prep, and their paint is still in a reasonable condition 5-6 years later.
One interesting item, they recommend a cleaning with TSP or their own citrus based product, and a mechanical abrade (such as a wire brush) for problem areas. They specifically do not recommend an acid wash.
This winter I'm going to try it on a section of my hangar floor that got screwed up with battery acid.....
gil A
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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10-19-2007, 10:15 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia
Posts: 1,227
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Griots Garage
I haven't done my shop, but I did do my 2 car garage floor.
I used Griots Garage Epoxy paint. Way better than the HD stuff, but is still water clean up. (before it sets up) Aparently has more solids than others. It costs 60.00 a gallon.
They have a several page PDF file on their website on how to apply the paint, and lots of prep work getting it ready, actually applying the paint was fun compared to getting the floor ready.
I am very happy with the results I'm seeing.
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....3080&SKU=90011
Good Luck
__________________
Bob Martin
RV-6, 0-360 Hartzell C/S, Tip up, 1200+TT
James extended cowl/plenum, induction, -8VS and Rudder. TSFlightline hoses. Oregon Aero leather seats.
D100-KMD150-660-TT ADI2- AS air/oil seperator. Vetterman exhaust with turndown tips.
Louisa, Virginia KLKU N94TB
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10-19-2007, 11:48 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: near San Diego
Posts: 170
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I'm glad to see this subject come up. I'm planning on 'finishing' my new shop floor as soon as it's done getting built. I gather epoxy is best. Whether water based or not and which brand to use is what I'm interested in finding out. Also, I think thats a good point about 'solid' color and being able to find small screws and stuff. I would imagine a lighter shade of solid color would also be a good thing in order to reflect the light and keep the overall shop brighter too.
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10-19-2007, 11:56 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pisa, Italy
Posts: 25
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Tip from a pro!
First off this is my first post. Promise you will see many more. I look around the site and you guys really impress me by your knowledge of aviation....I am overwhelmed actually. I rarely find a place in these forums to put in my two cents as all of your half dollars worth of knowledge trump mine. I do however know a thing or two about pulling heavy objects on epoxy floors as I have been pulling (by hand) thousands of pieces of aircraft support equipment on these floors for many years. I am active duty Air Force and from my experience the epoxy flooring has its positives and negatives.
The first thing when you think of getting these floors is ease of maintenance. Think again. The floor can chip, bubble or just become impossible to clean sometimes. The flooring makes it extremely hard to pull equipment around on....sandy grit or not. I have learned how to pull thousands of pounds of equipment on these floors and have busted my butt trying many times. One oil, or worse hydraulic fluid spot can mess you up big time, even after being mopped up.
My suggestion is plain old treated concrete, sealed. The epoxy might look good but it is a hassle. I am also a pretty young guy sans children, so falling on the floor only hurts my pride, but some of the older guys in here with a full family to support should think twice about breakin a bone or two.
My perfect hanger is has a concrete floor...no epoxy.
P.S. Two buildings I have seen professionally done were also botched and the floor bubbled....so if you do end up doing it....don't go with the lowest bidder.
It is an honor to be among giants!
Thanks for listening and teaching
-SD
Last edited by sierradelta : 10-19-2007 at 11:58 AM.
Reason: Grammer and spelling....and a little OCD
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10-19-2007, 12:21 PM
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Senior Curmudgeon
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sierradelta
First off this is my first post.
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Shane, welcome aboard!!!!!!
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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10-19-2007, 12:21 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Salmon Arm, BC
Posts: 933
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Using Racedeck
I started with Rustoleum, but was so unimpressed with the results decided to put in Racedeck flooring instead. Was pricey, but easy to install as it snaps together. Gives good cushioning both for dropping stuff and easy on the feet. The only downside I have found is that it expands dramatically if directly in the sun (for example when the shop door is open), and causes heaving. Goes away when the area is shaded again.
Another benefit is you can get different colours and make your own pattern. I definitely would do it again - a lot of hours are spent here.
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