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  #1  
Old 07-02-2005, 01:29 AM
TShort TShort is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Indianapolis, IN (KUMP)
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Default Another conduit question

I've looked thru all the posts here and reviewed the Matronics lists and the Van's .pdf file on conduit location ... still have a question:

It seems to me that it might be better to put the conduit near the top of the rib - that way, I could pull it thru after riveting the top skin and before putting on the bottoms. It seems like putting it on the bottom would cause trouble with bucking the lower wing skins since it would have to be pulled thru before they're bucked.

Am I missing something? Is there an interference issue at the wing root or would it be bad to have the conduit coming out higher?

Thanks
Thomas
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  #2  
Old 07-02-2005, 04:27 AM
rv6builder48138 rv6builder48138 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 52
Default Conduit

Quote:
Originally Posted by TShort
I've looked thru all the posts here and reviewed the Matronics lists and the Van's .pdf file on conduit location ... still have a question:

It seems to me that it might be better to put the conduit near the top of the rib - that way, I could pull it thru after riveting the top skin and before putting on the bottoms. It seems like putting it on the bottom would cause trouble with bucking the lower wing skins since it would have to be pulled thru before they're bucked.

Am I missing something? Is there an interference issue at the wing root or would it be bad to have the conduit coming out higher?

Thanks
Thomas
You have the general idea. If you attach the top skins first, then put the conduit at the top of the ribs. Same-same if you choose to attach the bottom skins first.
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  #3  
Old 07-02-2005, 07:05 AM
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Radomir Radomir is offline
 
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Default

it's really not an issue.. you just need the right bucking bar..

my suggestion -- follow Van's recommendation.
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  #4  
Old 07-02-2005, 08:36 AM
cropdusterdave cropdusterdave is offline
 
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Location: Fargo, ND
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Default

I ran the conduit before attaching any of the skins and used a little pro seal to boot. It's really not a problem....I just used a bucking bar with a little lip on it.
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  #5  
Old 07-02-2005, 12:17 PM
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rv8ch rv8ch is offline
 
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Default Conduit

I put my conduit on the bottom, before the bottom skins were attached, and I had no problem bucking the rivets. I've got photos here, if you are interested:

http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20041026231058140
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  #6  
Old 08-16-2005, 10:37 PM
bmurrish bmurrish is offline
 
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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Default

I'm piggy backing on this question instead of starting another thread.

I bought the black conduit from Van's and downloaded the Wing Wiring FAQ from their website. They tell you to drill a 3/4" hole to run the conduit. It will fit, but it takes a lot of effort to get it through. I am worried that I may end up warping the ribs with all that pulling. I'm curious as to what others have done with the Van's conduit. Is a 13/16" hole too large?
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  #7  
Old 08-17-2005, 02:51 AM
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RudiGreyling RudiGreyling is offline
 
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Default Me too

I'm piggy backing on this question as well, looking forward to answers.
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  #8  
Old 08-17-2005, 06:21 AM
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Captain_John Captain_John is offline
 
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Default

I went with a larger, 7/8" hole and am using a class 1 wiring method called Electrical Non Metallic Conduit (ENT) which can be found in the Aviation Department at Home Depot or Lowes.

As a professional electrician I recognize the flame retardency and high thermal properties of this material as well as the non deliterious nature of this product to be superior to the Vans conduit. It also has rounded interior "ribs" if you will. This facilitates easier installation of conductors, as it is made as a wireway!

Buuuuuut, it IS BIGGER! Soooooo, I called Van. The answer was the usual. Well, we never tested it... you know the rest. Come to find out, they never tested the 3/4" hole either! They know it works because thousands of RV's haven't crashed! They expect that another 1/8" added to that hole shouldn't be a factor. If it makes you feel any more comfortable, the wings haven't collapsed in my jig yet!



Hope this helps!

CJ
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  #9  
Old 08-17-2005, 06:41 AM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
Default "You can do it"

I did follow Van?s instructions to the letter (on this issue) and didn?t have a problem. It does take some work to pull the conduit through the holes and it makes an awful noise but there is enough play in the conduit that it will not warp the ribs. Once the conduit was in place I prosealed, as recommended.

To get the holes lined up, I made a small rectangular template with a #40 hole in it. I then placed the template on the rib with one corner of the template just touching the big lightening hole and the edge resting on the bottom of the rib, I then used a punch in the #40 hole to mark the center of where the conduit hole should go for ?Right? ribs and flipped it over for ?Left? ribs. If this isn?t clear, let me know and I?ll post a picture of my template.

One other thing to consider, if you are going to use Dynon?s AOA pitot tube you will want to drill a 2nd set of holes next to the pitot tube holes for the AOA line before you assemble the left wing. You can do this after the top skin is on (I did) but it is a PITA! There is a picture of the two lines running down the wing on the wing page of my web site. Also, don't drill the hole for the Van's pitot tube if you are going to use something else, like the Dynon pitot.
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  #10  
Old 08-17-2005, 07:00 AM
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Mark Burns Mark Burns is offline
 
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Location: Ruston, Louisiana
Posts: 878
Default Wing Conduit

I pretty much used Dan Checkoway's idea and put the holes for the conduit in the top forward corner of the main ribs. See his site :
http://www.rvproject.com/20020522.html

I drilled all the holes 13/16" except for the ribs on each end of the wing. I drilled these holes 3/4". That way you can get the conduit through the inner ribs fairly easy and the ribs on the end will hold it snug. It's a little tough to get it into the 3/4" holes, but once it's there it's not going anywhere. I plan to put a dab of tank sealant at each of the inner ribs to keep the conduit from moving any in the 13/16" holes.
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