Help removing cylinder

[abuura]

I am in the process of removing the #1 cylinder off my Mattituck TMXO-360. So far, I've only been able to pull it about 4mm away from the case. I've sprayed Kano Kroil all around the gap, under direction of an A&P and plan to get back to work tomorrow.
I understand it is not acceptable to use any materials to pry away the base of the cylinder from the case, even wood or plastic shims. One A&P suggests using a rubber mallet to tap on the case-side of the head to help get the jug off.
Question is, would it be acceptable to put a loop of rope through the rocker shaft bore and use a slide hammer to help pull? Does anyone know any other technique that won't cause damage? Thanks.

[Taltruda]

Don’t use pry tools or a slide hammer.. are you SURE you pulled the oil drain back hose? Primer? Intake and exhaust are clear? It should just pull off.. I start disassembly with the piston at TDC so that it doesn’t turn the crank as you remove it..

[jabarr]

Remove one of the spark plugs!

[abuura]

Originally Posted by Taltruda

Don’t use pry tools or a slide hammer.. are you SURE you pulled the oil drain back hose? Primer? Intake and exhaust are clear? It should just pull off.. I start disassembly with the piston at TDC so that it doesn’t turn the crank as you remove it..

Good questions but yes to all of them. One IA says he’s had to spend two hours wiggling a cylinder with an assistant until it finally came off. Don’t really want that kind of solo workout, so I’m looking for other tips. YouTube videos all show the cylinder coming out easily, but that’s not been my experience so far.

[abuura]

Originally Posted by jabarr

Remove one of the spark plugs!

Both plug removed.

[lr172]

I have never had much trouble getting a cyl off, so struggling to understand what might be causing this. It is a somewhat tight fit at the base and wonder if you are letting the cyl fall a bit and this is causing the hang up due to the angle. The rings are dragging along the cyl, so there is going to be some resistance. May want to try turning the crank and see if the cyl moves easilly then. That will separate ring drag resistance from some other issue going on at the base flange.

The steel cyl is sitting in an alum case ring, so DO NOT hit it with a hammer.

[abuura]

Originally Posted by lr172

I have never had much trouble getting a cyl off, so struggling to understand what might be causing this. It is a somewhat tight fit at the base and wonder if you are letting the cyl fall a bit and this is causing the hang up due to the angle. The rings are dragging along the cyl, so there is going to be some resistance. May want to try turning the crank and see if the cyl moves easilly then. That will separate ring drag resistance from some other issue going on at the base flange.

The steel cyl is sitting in an alum case ring, so DO NOT hit it with a hammer.

This resistance happens regardless of the angle of the cylinder ref the case, it wiggles up and down some, laterally a tiny bit. The piston moves freely up and down, as observed through the spark plug hole. I set it to TDC to ensure I get max opportunity to capture it when the cylinder finally comes free.
The A&P who gave me the Kano Kroil speculates that it will help dissolve a small bit of crud/debris that may be interfering with the very close fit between the barrel and case opening.
Again, an IA next door says he’s had this happen and I’m just looking for an alternate solution to wiggling on it for two hours. So far, responses confirm that’s my only option and that any kind of mechanical “pull” on the cylinder assembly is inadvisable. I will get to find out tomorrow whether the Kano method helped.

[abwaldal@gmail.com]

Maybe you need one of these.

Ha ha
Fixit

[rmarshall234]

With the valves closed and bottom plug in, apply shop pressure to other spark plug hole? Just spitballing here…

[RheinRivets]

If the air pressure gets high enough, the suddenly loosening cylinder might turn into a nice projectile. Might work but I would proceed with extreme caution.