Baffle "Finger Spacer"

[tx_jayhawk]

Enjoying work on the baffles (yeah right), and I had a couple of questions:

1) I am installing the aft baffle bulkhead, and the plans say to use a "finger spacer" to space it from the engine where it mounts with an AN4 bolt. Some dimensions say 1/8", while others say 1/4" (it looks like it should be much more than that). What is a finger spacer and how big should it really be (pictures are always appreciated)?

2) Should the left rear baffle be trimmed to completely clear the rubber on the motor mount? It appears it somewhat lays against it right now, and it seems like I should trim to clear?

Thanks,
Scott
7A Finishing

[Rene Bubberman]

Hi Scott,

On http://websites.expercraft.com/PHVII...ry&log_id=7797 you'll find a picture of this finger spacer, I made it 1/4" thick and oblong in shape. Just open the right picture and enlarge.
Since the whole engine shakes a lot during start-up it is better to make sure nothing rubs against other parts like the mounting rubber so just trim it stay clear. All the best!

[cytoxin]

i made mine 1/4 thick but if you do, roatate the finger to the 3 oclock posistion (as viewed from the front) unless you plan on tapering it. you'll see what i mean. as far as rubbing the mount both the mount and baffles are affixed to the engine so there shouldnt be any relative motion there to cause problems. my finger spacer was teardrop shaped and one keeper rivet to hold it to the baffles. i didnt trim around the mount but really dont see a problem with that as long as you dont allow it to contact the rubber protion of the mount,
oh yeah it could stand to be 1/16 thicker.

[sf3543]

Instead of using the finger spacer, I used a piece of tubing instead. Also, put a plate nut on instead of using a nut.
This way, it is much easier to get the baffling in place. Once in place, use a long nose pliers or something to hold the tubing/spacer in place while you slide in the bolt, then tighten it down.
Nothing gets scratched up this way and it is way easier.
I think I had a piece of stainless tubing from the exaust installation kit that I used, but aluminum tubing would work just as well.

[tonyjohnson]

I am bumping this thread in order not to start a new one related to the same topic. I am now working on the baffles and have this same issue. It always worries me when I see something in the plans that I don't understand. I wonder what I am missing here.

Why do the plans call for this AN4-15 bolt in the rear baffle bulkhead? It is obviously way long for that application. Even after a spacer in the rear, there is another section of the bolt that sticks out on the forward side that has no thread for at least 1/8 in and perhaps more.

Whats up with this bolt? There must be some purpose for it being as long as it is. Can someone tell me what I am missing here?

Thanks

[Stevea]

Don't think you are missing anything. There is no mystery here, the bolt only holds the baffle to the engine case. It is not used to mount any other hardware.

I had to change the bolt length there because the -15 was too long. Pick the right bolt length, and proceed with building.

The -15 length callout is probably a result of the particular engine case thickness and finger spacer installed on Van's original baffle setup.