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  #1  
Old 09-10-2007, 07:41 AM
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petehowell petehowell is offline
 
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Location: MN
Posts: 2,269
Default Carb Strainer and Primer

I began my annual and this weekend, and started working on the FWF portion as part of an oil change. I pulled the carb inlet strainer and found what I can only describe as "cat fur" in the strainer. It was about 3/8 full of the stuff. I had to use a dental pick to remove it. I don't have a cat, so not sure what it was.

I also had a primer line broken at the the solenoid. It broke right at the flare. I don't use the primer, so I removed it and the plumbing - saved a few ounces. Is there anything better than copper tubing for the primer lines? I have heard only bad things about copper.

Everything else looked pretty good!

Plane has 195 hours on it now. RV-9A with O-320
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Amateur Plane - RV-9A N789PH - 2350+ Hrs
Amateur Radio - KD0CVN
Doggies Delivered - 25+
St. Paul, MN
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  #2  
Old 09-10-2007, 08:11 AM
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IowaRV9Dreamer IowaRV9Dreamer is offline
 
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Location: Marion IA
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Default no primer in MN?

Hi Pete - I was wondering if you could share your experiences starting in cold weather with no primer. I just assumed that I'd need a primer to fly in winter here in IA, since the C150/C172 that I usually use really like to be primed below about 20F.

It would be great to know that I wouldn't have to install a priming system!

dave
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Building RV-9A N149DG (slider, IO-320, IFR)
Restored and Flying Beech Super III N3698Q
Marion IA

Struggling with fiberglass

There is no sport equal to that which aviators enjoy while being carried through the air on great white wings." Wilbur Wright, 1905
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  #3  
Old 09-10-2007, 09:05 AM
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petehowell petehowell is offline
 
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Location: MN
Posts: 2,269
Default

Hi Dave,

We have a hangar we keep at 45 deg and I have a sump and cylinder heating system on a thermostat (Alex Peterson design) that keeps the engine at 70deg in the winter. If I travel in the winter, I'll plug it in at the very least.

The warm motor fires off very quickly using a pump of the throttle. I understand the risks of this.

If need be, I could quickly reinstall the system.
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Pete

Amateur Plane - RV-9A N789PH - 2350+ Hrs
Amateur Radio - KD0CVN
Doggies Delivered - 25+
St. Paul, MN
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  #4  
Old 09-10-2007, 10:44 AM
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Bob Martin Bob Martin is offline
 
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Location: Charlottesville, Virginia
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Default Primer lines

"I also had a primer line broken at the the solenoid. It broke right at the flare. I don't use the primer, so I removed it and the plumbing - saved a few ounces. Is there anything better than copper tubing for the primer lines? I have heard only bad things about copper."

Pete,
I have reworked the primer system on my RV-6.
I hadn't heard anything bad about the copper, in fact, just the opposite.
I wanted to and did, use Stainless Steel, but many thought it was over kill.
I have seen Alum used in primer lines and THAT does scare me.
Not sure why yours broke, but there should be a generous vibration loop in the line between the firewall mounted parts and the engine mounted parts.
I actually used a braided flexable line for that location.
Good Luck
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RV-6, 0-360 Hartzell C/S, Tip up, 1200+TT
James extended cowl/plenum, induction, -8VS and Rudder. TSFlightline hoses. Oregon Aero leather seats.
D100-KMD150-660-TT ADI2- AS air/oil seperator. Vetterman exhaust with turndown tips.
Louisa, Virginia KLKU N94TB
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  #5  
Old 09-10-2007, 11:05 AM
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petehowell petehowell is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: MN
Posts: 2,269
Default Hi Bob

I did have a vibration loop, but agree a flexible line would be better here.
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Pete

Amateur Plane - RV-9A N789PH - 2350+ Hrs
Amateur Radio - KD0CVN
Doggies Delivered - 25+
St. Paul, MN
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