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  #1  
Old 09-04-2007, 09:24 PM
whifof100ll whifof100ll is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Mandeville, Louisiana
Posts: 179
Default Tank access plate sealing, again.

Have removed the access plate on my RV-6 project to do the pick up tube SB. The project is not completed and fuel has not been in the tanks. Originally they were built with Cork Gaskets and pro-sealed screw heads. Air testing showed no leaks.

I know there are many good post in this topic and I've searched and read probably all of them. I apoligize in advance if some think this is already overdone, but I would like opinions on my potential course of action to seal the access plate. I have spoken to Van's about their recommendations for sealing the acces plate.

They recommend sealing the access plate without a gasket and use of the rubber gasket around the sender.

I am considering this, but I really don't like it.

I would prefer having easy access to get back into the tank if I ever need to, say to repair a leak in the tank that might develop over time and use.

The solution I am leaning toward is to have a rubber gasket water jet cut, similar to what is now supplied with the senders. My thinking here is that this gasket should not degrade with time as the cork would. Since standard nutplates are already installed, so I don't see drilling them out and using capped sealed nutplates wicks sells. At least I am telling myself that since I don't want to drill that stuff out.

I am considering using allen screws with an o-ring groove recessed in the head. See www.selfsealingfasteners.com/index.htm. I would dope the gasket and o-rings with fuel lube.

Opinions???

Dale Lambert
RV-6 finishing kit.
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  #2  
Old 09-04-2007, 10:33 PM
Paul Eastham's Avatar
Paul Eastham Paul Eastham is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 506
Default

If you're worried about gasket leaks, you could totally cover all surfaces of the cork gasket with proseal. As you know it'll be easier to open up again if you have a gasket in there.

As for screws, I don't see the point of doing anything fancier than a liberal blob of proseal under the head of each. With those allen heads, removal should be easy -- even removing philips from the tank isn't too bad with the proper tools.
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Paul Eastham - Mountain View CA
RV-9A standard build, flying! ~300 hrs
EAA Chapter 338 San Jose
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  #3  
Old 09-05-2007, 01:24 AM
shiney shiney is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: York, England
Posts: 381
Default

Past searches will reveal that its not recommended by the forum to use the cork gaskets, most builders just proseal. Out of interest, how did you remove the access plate? did you just slice through the proseal with a blade or is there some other way? I'm considering putting a flop tube in mine but I'm a bit nervous of removal and bits of proseal dropping into the tank!

let me know.

Martin
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  #4  
Old 09-05-2007, 08:08 AM
whifof100ll whifof100ll is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Mandeville, Louisiana
Posts: 179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shiney
Past searches will reveal that its not recommended by the forum to use the cork gaskets, most builders just proseal. Out of interest, how did you remove the access plate? did you just slice through the proseal with a blade or is there some other way? I'm considering putting a flop tube in mine but I'm a bit nervous of removal and bits of proseal dropping into the tank!

let me know.

Martin

Mine had non prosealed cork gasket with prosealed screws. I was able to get the screws out by putting small vise grips on the screw heads and getting them turning. Then used the phillips head. The plate came off no problem since the cork was not prosealed.
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