db1yg
Well Known Member
Tip: Tip Up Safety and Main Latch Mods
Shortly after ordering my RV9a tail kit back in 2003 I witnessed an RV6a owner struggle to get his tip up canopy open. It seems the canopy slipped out of his hand on closure and the safety latch had pivoted and partially engaged under the roll bar when the canopy slammed shut. After about an hour of working accompanied by much colorful language he was able to get it unlocked without damage.
Hmmmm--how to avoid this as well as keep the latch from continuously scratching the high dollar jet flex paint I intended to use on the interior??
After much head scratching I tossed the stock mounting block and replaced it with some white UHMW plastic. The new block is the same thickness as the old but it is about 1" shorter and 1" wider. I drilled this block for the safety latch shaft handle, purchased a SS compression spring (aviation section of my local Lowes), and mounted the stock stop washer and cotter pin. The block was mounted whereby the safety latch is high of the roll bar when not in use therefore it can not pivot and lock with me on the outside of the plane. When you need to latch simply pull down on the handle (compress the spring), pivot, and release. It also will not rattle as it wears as the spring will remove any slack. You will note from the pic that I also mounted a thin strip (1/8th thick) of the UHMW plastic under the canopy bow--the latch rides on this when engaged. The angled white metal above the latch shaft is simply there to contain the spring in the event the cotter pin gave up--it is probably overkill but I did not want the spring releasing into my plexi.
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I also modified the primary canopy latch but will save that for a future post if anyone is interested.
Cheers,
db
Shortly after ordering my RV9a tail kit back in 2003 I witnessed an RV6a owner struggle to get his tip up canopy open. It seems the canopy slipped out of his hand on closure and the safety latch had pivoted and partially engaged under the roll bar when the canopy slammed shut. After about an hour of working accompanied by much colorful language he was able to get it unlocked without damage.
Hmmmm--how to avoid this as well as keep the latch from continuously scratching the high dollar jet flex paint I intended to use on the interior??
After much head scratching I tossed the stock mounting block and replaced it with some white UHMW plastic. The new block is the same thickness as the old but it is about 1" shorter and 1" wider. I drilled this block for the safety latch shaft handle, purchased a SS compression spring (aviation section of my local Lowes), and mounted the stock stop washer and cotter pin. The block was mounted whereby the safety latch is high of the roll bar when not in use therefore it can not pivot and lock with me on the outside of the plane. When you need to latch simply pull down on the handle (compress the spring), pivot, and release. It also will not rattle as it wears as the spring will remove any slack. You will note from the pic that I also mounted a thin strip (1/8th thick) of the UHMW plastic under the canopy bow--the latch rides on this when engaged. The angled white metal above the latch shaft is simply there to contain the spring in the event the cotter pin gave up--it is probably overkill but I did not want the spring releasing into my plexi.
I also modified the primary canopy latch but will save that for a future post if anyone is interested.
Cheers,
db
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