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07-25-2007, 08:02 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,116
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aileron problem - help!
I ran into a pretty serious problem with my ailerons today, but I'm at a loss to explain what's gone wrong. I drilled and put together the spar, ribs and counterweight as directed. I put the stiffeners on the skins. Then I temporarily riveted the bottom skin to the ribs as directed. Then flipped it over and put it on my (very flat) table and clecoed the top skin to the ribs as directed. Then I put clecoed the leading edge skin to the spar, as directed. This was very difficult - I had to pry with a hole-punch to get the holes to pull together. When I finally got it on, it caused a severe buckling and significant wave in the upper and lower main skins, which cannot be flattened out with weights. Is as though the leading edge skin is pulling the spar out of line, so that it's making hte main skins buckle.
What to do??? Photo attached shows the situtation (two photos together):

__________________
Phil
RV9A (SB)
Flying since July 2010!
Ottawa, Canada
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07-25-2007, 10:09 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Marion IA
Posts: 1,095
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more weight
Hi Phil - I'm just past you (or at least I was...). I think you need more weight. I had the same waves. I used (2) 2x8's with 3 full buckets of clecos. It was nice and flat.
If you haven't already, be careful when you countersink the spar and nose ribs. I went too deep on both and now I need new parts.
__________________
Dave Gribble VAF #232
Building RV-9A N149DG (slider, IO-320, IFR)
Restored and Flying Beech Super III N3698Q
Marion IA
Struggling with fiberglass
There is no sport equal to that which aviators enjoy while being carried through the air on great white wings." Wilbur Wright, 1905
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07-25-2007, 11:00 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sedro Wooley, WA
Posts: 147
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wavy add more weight
Phil,
Iowa dreamer is right. Use more weight and rivet that sucker. I used three 25 pound bags of lead shot laid on top of a flat board and they came out straight and no twist.
Using an awl or ice pick works great to align holes. Wait until you build your fuel tanks.
Mike
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07-26-2007, 08:19 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,116
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re-assembled
I took it apart and re-assembled it with the weight on it (last time, I had assembled without weight, and put the weight on after... in that case the weight did not eliminate the buckling). This time, the weight (1x4 laid along length of it, with bricks on top) is holding the thing flat. If I take the weights off, a wave appears. By drilling and riveting with the weights on, will this result in the aileron being locked-flat, so the wave won't reappear? I can't fly with bricks on my aileron 
__________________
Phil
RV9A (SB)
Flying since July 2010!
Ottawa, Canada
Last edited by prkaye : 07-26-2007 at 09:47 AM.
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07-26-2007, 08:52 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 872
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Phil,
I drilled and riveted mine with sandbags on the ailerons and they came out flat. I did the same thing on the flaps, too.
__________________
Mark
RV-12iS Fuselage
RV-9A Project: Sold
VAF donation made for 2020
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07-26-2007, 09:46 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,116
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I did my flaps, and they came out great. But the difference with the flaps is you have all those ribs to pull everything into alignment. These ailerons, with only one rib at each end... not as much to pull the skins together and eliminate the buckling and waving. Maybe the TE will help. I'll just move ahead and hope for the best. With the weights on it right now, on the table, it's fine.
__________________
Phil
RV9A (SB)
Flying since July 2010!
Ottawa, Canada
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07-26-2007, 11:05 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: St. Louis (Eureka), MO
Posts: 283
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Phil - same thing happened to me and others whose builder sites I peruse. Scares us all at first. You need to have enough weight to hold flat (I used 2X4's planed flat on one side and 4-5 bricks, 8 for the flap). The TE will be flat then, and will stay that way when you drill into it (perpendicular to the chord!) and cleco into the table. When you do final riveting, it should be nice and flat.
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