FI conversion, new used choice
Lycs that can be converted to FI
Any Lyc can be converted to FI but some cylinders are better suited and easier to convert. The cylinder is the key. Most Late model Lycoming cylinders have ports drilled and plugged top and bottom. FI uses the top ports. Some cyl don't have the top ports, but most do. You can buy a bottom port FI setup but don't, it is an ugly installation.
The ports are used for manifold pressure or fuel primer ports on carb engines. There are some cylinders that just have the lower ports drilled/tapped. You can get a FI system to work with the lower ports, but as I said you don't want that, it is a huge pain. You can actually drill and tap the upper ports if you know someone with a machine shop. A friend got a drawing of how and where to drill the hole. Another friend drilled them who had access to a machine shop skill/access. You need to jig it to drill at the correct angles but it is not impossible.
New? Used? Engine
>Don't buy or overhaul your engine too early if you can.
>Always be on the look out.
>A use engine that is running w/ some life is the cheapest way to go.
>Be careful w/ used engines, a deal might end up to be an expensive pile of....
>Used engine + Do-it-yourself rebuild = good deal only if the core is cheap.
>The line between new & use is blurred, $17,500 new clone engines are 5K less than new Lyc.
>A rebuilt core, $5K core + $10k pro rebuild = $15K, not a big difference.
>Cheaper clones are making going used less attractive (unless core is good & cheap).
>FI is more money ($2,500 incl pumps) for a little more efficency in cruise.
I bought an O-360A1A for $2,500 and sold off a bunch of accessories that came with the engine: generator, wet vac pump, exhaust, prop (feather type), prop gov (feather) and bendix mags (not using them). I rebuild it myself with A&P/AI fiends help. Really most of the work was sent out to ECI anyway. They only thing we did was tear down, build up. So I have about $10,000 into it. I still have one item to buy the electronic ignition, which will cost about $2K. So a fresh O-360A1A with overhauled Carb/prop gov, new Denso alternator and dual electronic ignition about $12,000. Not bad, but the key was getting a cheap core and lucking out all parts were good for overhaul.
If you buy used and have a bad crank, cam, case, cylinders you may end up spending as much as you would have with a new clone. Also the trend in rebuild is going to new parts any way. People tend to buy new cylinders than overhaul the old ones. Unless you planning on doing the sweat work and overhaul your own engine I would suggest NEW. You get a tested engine with a warranty. The best deals are usually scenarios like a running low time O-320 that some RV'er is selling to upgrade to a 180HP engine. If you can get all the accessories, baffles with it makes it even better.
Cheers George
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