Tapered Reamer question

[Brambo]

After reading about problems with the nose gear becoming loose in the engine mount socket, I decided to try using a taper pin. Following the instructions of the Jim Ellis artical on installing a taper pin http://www.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Nose_Gear_Strut , I find that the taper reamer doen't seem to be working. I first started using a ratchet, turning slowly and using plenting of cutting oil. Then I tried a electric drill at slow speed. Still no apparent progress. Is there a trick to this or is it just going to take a LONG time? If someone out there has used these taper reamers before, any suggestions would be welcome.

Bill Rambo
RV-7A

[Brantel]

Are'nt these legs tempered? If so, it may be hard if not imposible to do this.... If not, it should work, just go slow and clean the reamer often. Make sure you are turning the reamer the correct direction.

[tonyjohnson]

Jim Ellis says that it is not difficult. You might want to send him a private message or wait for him to respond here when he sees this thread. Perhaps he has some hints.

[DanH]

Might need a carbide reamer.

[sandifer]

Most taper reamers are designed to be used by hand. Use a good two bar tap wrench and do it by hand.

I used a Brown and Sharpe taper on my RV-3 gear legs and trashed one reamer by not applying enough pressure initially. If you don't start it cutting right away, you'll dull it in an instant and it will never cut. Could be the problem you're encountering. I tried again with a new reamer and it worked perfectly. Should not take long at all. After drilling the holes, reaming was the easy part.

[Brambo]

Darn, that sounds like what might be the problem. I guess I'll try a new reamer.

Thanks

[mdoyle]

Most reamers have straight flutes, so they do not self feed at all. It takes a lot of pressure to get them to cut. If you were able to drill using the S size drill, you should be able to ream it without a problem. Remember, a taper reamer is cutting the entire depth of the hole, when you are getting close to being finished, unlike a drill bit that cuts mainly at the end.

[Jim Ellis]

Bill,

When you ream the hole for the pin I found that the reamer would often turn but not cut. You must hold firm inward pressure on the reamer while you're turning for it to cut. It seems, if you ease up on it, debris gets under the cutting flutes and prevents good contact with the stock. When this happens remove the reamer wipe it clean with a lightly oiled rag and clean the hole...then try again. Firm inward pressure and a slow steady turn seems to work best. You can "feel" the reamer cutting when everything is just right. Do not try to use a power drill...it just spins the reamer in the hole.

Sometimes a small burr will form on the edges of the reamer flutes. Use a small flat stone on the inside edge of the flutes to remove them if they occur.

Also don't use too much cutting oil...this seems to cause the reamer to loose it's "bite" on the metal.

Good Luck!

[LettersFromFlyoverCountry]

Is there someplace that describes the proper way to use reamers? I hate to admit it -- now -- but I have no clue how they're used.

[ctbecker]

I like the concept of a tapered hole that can continually be tightened, but I've given up on a source for the pins. Even AS wont stock them because ther is not enough demand. Others have $75 minimum orders.