Wiring an PlanePower 60A Altenator?

[RudiGreyling]

Hi Guys,

I want some opinions and clarity on wiring the PlanePower 60A Alternator from the electrical gurus here, see picture...


I plan a Simple lightweight VFR plane, Single Bus, Single Altenator, with a Dynon D100 and D120.

1) Is it necessary to wire the Alternator Enable (Field switch) pins 2&3??? When would one need this function on a simple VFR plane?
2) What is the Function of the "Alternator OUT light" what does it indicate exactly?
3) Would one still fit a 60A circuit breaker on the main 6mm output terminal, if one use a ANL limiter.
4) How would one combine the Shunt Resistor and the ANL?

Thank you in advance.
Kind Regards
Rudi

[Jamie]

Hi Rudi:

I'm not an electrical guru by any stretch of the imagination, but I did wire my alternator and I have run my engine twice and it seems to be working fine, so here goes.

Originally Posted by RudiGreyling

1) Is it necessary to wire the Alternator Enable (Field switch) pins 2&3??? When would one need this function on a simple VFR plane?

I wrote a long response to this question, then deleted it because I realized that I was guessing and had no clue what I was talking about. I do know that some alternators cannot disengage the charging circuit once it's opened until the alternator stops spinning. I'm not sure about this unit.

I wired mine up in what I believe is the easiest method. I used a three position switch. Lowest position is off, middle position is bat and top position is alt+batt. This prevents you from opening the charging circuit without first opening the main contactor which allows the alternator to feed juice to the battery. Opening the charging circuit without a battery connected is a bad idea.

Originally Posted by RudiGreyling

2) What is the Function of the "Alternator OUT light" what does it indicate exactly?

Light on=alternator not generating power, Light off=alternator generating power. I'm not sure what happens in an overvoltage condition, but I'm assuming the light will come on. Too bad that's not in the paperwork. I did verify that the light actually goes off when you start the engine.

Here's my failure light:


The alternator is simply pulling the light circuit down to ground, so to me it seems reasonable that you could do any number of things with this. I bet you could even wire it as a contact to the Dynon EMS. I did this but then chickened out because I couldn't find anyone who had tried it before and I was concerned about feeding alternator noise into the sensitive EMS.

Originally Posted by RudiGreyling

3) Would one still fit a 60A circuit breaker on the main 6mm output terminal, if one use a ANL limiter.

I would say no, they're redundant. The ANL limiter is just a big fat fuse.

Originally Posted by RudiGreyling

4) How would one combine the Shunt Resistor and the ANL?

I'm assuming you mean the ammeter shunt? I didn't install one. You can put the ammeter shunt in three different locations in your electrical system (check the Dynon EMS manual on their website as they explain it well), so it's sort of not relevant to the ANL limiter. If you do put it beside your ANL limiter you could simply use a copper bar just like folks do with their master contactor to starter contactor/solenoid.

Hope that helps,

[Radomir]

1) I did
2) Thing isn't charging
3) No

[Frank Smidler]

I wired the field wire through one side of my Double Pull Double Throw master switch (the opposite side is the mater circuit). This way it can not be turned on without the battery on. I then wired it through a panel mounted circuit breaker that can be manually pulled if it goes into a runaway condition. This is per Bob at Aero Electric recommendation.

[Jamie]

Rudi:

You got me to thinking so I did some more research.

Check out this document.

It explains that you can safely turn the charging circuit on and off, along with a few other things.

[Jekyll]

I felt very comfortable using an ANL on the F/W in lieu of the 60 amp CB shown on the drawing.

This ties in with another current threat on electrical fires:

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...lectrical+fire

The 5amp CB allows you to cut the output at the alternator. The ANL forward of the F/W, protects the cockpit wiring in the event of a short. A short aft of the F/W will fail the ANL. No unprotected or uncontrollable high amp current comes through the F/W. Keeps the nasties and the soft fleshy things on opposite sides of the stainless steel. Could mount your 60 amp CB forward of the F/W but, this is where the ANL shines.

Control, simplicity and reliability.

Jekyll

[w1curtis]

Originally Posted by RudiGreyling

1) Is it necessary to wire the Alternator Enable (Field switch) pins 2&3??? When would one need this function on a simple VFR plane?
2) What is the Function of the "Alternator OUT light" what does it indicate exactly?
3) Would one still fit a 60A circuit breaker on the main 6mm output terminal, if one use a ANL limiter.
4) How would one combine the Shunt Resistor and the ANL?

Thank you in advance.
Kind Regards
Rudi

Here are my $0.02 on these questions.
1) Necessary, NO but a good idea-even for VFR.
2) Wouldn't you like to know if the alternator is not producing power? Wire you ammeter in battery lead mode and rely on this light to tell you when the alternator is not producing power--see below.
3) An ANL limiter provides circuit protection, a circuit breaker provides protection and added control.
4) This would only be if you want to wire you ammeter in "alternator lead" mode. Personally I like "battery lead" mode since it can tell your battery reserve if you have an alternator failure. In "alternator lead" mode it will just read "0" (kind of like that red light above) if you have an alternator failure and how much current you are production when it is working. You will rarely care how much power the alternator is producing, but you may ofter care how much your battery is charging or discharging.

[uk_figs]

Rudi
I am building the same setup and have just finished this part of the firewall, I would offer the following comments:
1. The light wiring will only be required if you are not planning on using the Dynon low voltage warning which will detect if the alternator goes off line (voltage will drop below a predetermined value). The Dynon also has spare switched ground connectors that you can designate, I plan to use one of these in parallel with my Master Caution (low oil pressure) warning light so either low oil pressure or alternator failure will turn on the light. This will also tell you if you have not turned off the battery master switch.
2. I have wired in the current limiter and the ammeter shunt, to get + or - readings you have to wire the output of the battery master relay to one side of the shunt and the alternator goes to the current limiter and then to the other side of the shunt (this is also the connection to the main buss), if I figured the drawings out correctly this then shows flow to and from the battery. I am at work now but will take a picture of the firewall and post it if you want. I followed the Vans and the Dynon wiring diagrams in this area(using Z-11 as a guide)
Hope this helps

[penguin]

Originally Posted by RudiGreyling

1) Is it necessary to wire the Alternator Enable (Field switch) pins 2&3??? When would one need this function on a simple VFR plane?
2) What is the Function of the "Alternator OUT light" what does it indicate exactly?
3) Would one still fit a 60A circuit breaker on the main 6mm output terminal, if one use a ANL limiter.
4) How would one combine the Shunt Resistor and the ANL?

Here's another opinion,
1) You have to apply battery power to these pins to get any electricity out of the alternator. Switch is not essential, can be hard wired to the bus.
2) To tell you when the alternator is not producing current.
3) No, use ANL or 60A breaker.
4) Don't know, never use an ammeter only a volt meter.

Pete

[RudiGreyling]

Hi Guys,

WOW thanks for the go0d feedback...

uk_figs, yes please post some pictures....

Here is what I learned...
1) It looks like it is a good idea to have a switch on the panel to disable the alternator, I just don't know why one would do that??? But reading the docs that Jamie posted it looks like the over voltage protection will burn the fuse or breaker when it goes up in smoke, and take the alternator automatic of line....Is that correct??
2) I am going to use my Dynon Low Voltage warning instead of the lamp, one less thing on the panel, less weight and simple.
3) Just put a ANL FW forward, don't bring the 60A wire to the panel. less weight complexity and noise...
4) Wire both the ANL and Shunt.

Any more comments, please let them roll in.

Kind Regards
Rudi