Pro-Seal Question

FredMagare · #1 07-01-2007, 10:58 AM

I've been Pro-Sealing the ribs in the left fuel tank (using Rick Galati's method - which is WONDERFUL! The man's a GENIUS! [see link in post #7]). It would seem, however, that I made a mixing ratio error on one of two ribs I installed the other day.

I'm pretty sure that I mixed one batch at a ratio of 20:1 rather than the required 10:1. (Not enough activator). The sealant on one is still gooey and a lighter grey than the other.

Here's the question: Will I have to remove that rib, clean-up, and re-install it, or will the sealant merely take longer to cure?

I think I already know (and fear) what the correct answer is but I think I need to hear it from others.

Kyle Boatright · #2 07-01-2007, 01:13 PM

As I understand it, the black stuff is the catalyst which triggers the reaction. If you mixed the black stuff in at 1:100, the proseal should eventually cure. However, you might not want to wait that long.

One thing that can speed the reaction in catalyzed materials is heat. I experienced this with my fuel tanks when I completed one of 'em in cool weather and it took a week or so before the proseal fully cured. On the other end of the scale, I have used proseal in hot weather where it didn't last as long as the listed working life before getting pretty firm. Use that fact to your advantage:

Put the fuel tank outside in the hottest environment you cand find. Maybe in direct sunlight, maybe inside a black vehicle in direct sunlight. I think a few days of this treatment might speed the reaction and you might not have to pull the tank apart.

If you the stuff doesn't start firming up pretty well in a few days, it is time to pull it apart.

Good luck...

zilik · #3 07-01-2007, 01:23 PM

I did the same thing on a friends tanks and the proseal did finally cure. It has been flying 2+ years now and no leaky.

Mel · #4 07-01-2007, 01:31 PM

It should cure fine. A word of caution about storing it in a black car; It may take a while to get the "smell" out of the car.

FredMagare · #5 07-01-2007, 02:01 PM

Thank you all, but I had to make a decision.

I was thinking about it (how could I not?), and eventually came to the conclusion that so long as I was having doubts, those doubts were reason enough to pull the rib out. (Which was not difficult at all.) I was trying to avoid the use of MEK (I've been doing very well with acetone and lacquer thinner) but figure I can clean the rib and tank interior with that. (Appropriate hazmat precautions will be in place.)

I'll have to pay more attention to my measurements!

Again, thanks all for the advice! (I freakin' LOVE this site! Thanks Doug.)

cln1owner · #6 07-01-2007, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FredMagare

I've been Pro-Sealing the ribs in the left fuel tank (using Rick Galati's method - which is WONDERFUL! The man's a GENIUS!).

I've just started on my tanks... where can I find some info on Rick's method?

FredMagare · #7 07-01-2007, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cln1owner

I've just started on my tanks... where can I find some info on Rick's method?

It can be found at the following link:

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ks+rick+galati

I've had no problems so far - except the one that started the thread.

jimgreen · #8 07-02-2007, 08:03 AM

Talking about screw ups, I dimpled the tank skins for the baffle rivets instead of c/sinking. I thought I would have trouble placing the baffle for a good seal, but it actually was very easy to get the baffle in position. It avoids the difficulty of positioning the baffle accurately as the dimples just slip into place. I also prefer the appearance.
On my next RV I think I'll make the same mistake.

Brantel · #9 07-02-2007, 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimgreen

Talking about screw ups, I dimpled the tank skins for the baffle rivets instead of c/sinking. I thought I would have trouble placing the baffle for a good seal, but it actually was very easy to get the baffle in position. It avoids the difficulty of positioning the baffle accurately as the dimples just slip into place. I also prefer the appearance.
On my next RV I think I'll make the same mistake.

If I had it to do over, I would have done this as well. The countersinks are hard to get deep enough and these rivets tend to stand proud after riveting. I don't think it would have been hard at all to get the baffle to go past the dimples.

TGRV7 · #10 07-02-2007, 06:04 PM

I dimpled the tank skins by accident as well
Hope I dont have leaks.
On the other hand I like dimples more than CS.