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10-11-2020, 06:16 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 534
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Update
I drove my hour to the airport to again look at the ground situation and the starter solenoid.
Ground: The negative battery terminal is grounded to the firewall. Where the top left engine mount attaches to the firewall is a ground wire going to engine attaching via bolt just under the left magneto. This looks like a solid ground - checked with a multimeter, there was no noted resistance.
Starter solenoid: This aircraft appears to have two solenoids ganged together. The positive cable from the battery attaches to the top solenoid. A cable from the lower solenoid runs to the starter. The bottom solenoid has an interesting setup with a jump wire between the two smaller posts.
Based on a private pm I decided it was worth a shot to replace the lower solenoid. Installed the new solenoid and wired it just as before based on a picture I took (see below). Did a test starter engagement and it immediately started cranking strongly. Since I was in the hanger and didn’t want to actually start, I disengaged the starter but it kept cranking until I turned off the battery switch. Tried a second time - same result. What a surprise!
I’m thinking maybe the old solenoid was jumped between the two smaller post by the previous owner/builder because he knew the lower solenoid had failed (just speculation) and that jump between the two smaller post just closed the relay.
Here’s my questions now: Why would there be two solenoids ganged together? If there should be two solenoids then why are the two smaller solenoid post on the lower solenoid jumped together? Don’t you normally touch those two posts together when trying to jump a car starter?
Please look at the attached picture and tell me what you see and help me figure out why my starter doesn’t disengage until I turn off the battery switch.
__________________
Jim Harris, ATP, T38, EC/KC-135A/E/R, 2008 RV7A, 2nd owner, N523RM (2015)
Superior XPIO-360, Hartzel CS prop, Aerotronics panel with Dual GRT Horizon WS, EIS, Garmin 340, 335 w/WAAS gps, Dual 430s (non-WAAS), TruTrak 385 A/P with auto-level, Electric trim, Tosten 6 button Military Grips, FlightBox wired to WS, Dynon D10A w/battery backup, 406 MHz ELT. Custom Interior, New TS Flightline hoses, Great POH!
Retired - Living the dream - going broke!
Last edited by Tankerpilot75 : 10-11-2020 at 06:28 PM.
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10-11-2020, 07:00 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Posts: 79
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Solenoid wiring
appears to be standard setup for later RV's. Upper solenoid is master solenoid, all power to aircraft generally runs through this. Lower solenoid is starter solenoid, current only flows when starting. Regarding starter won't disengage, check that jumper as cross the small terminal, don't believe that should be there. Is it possible that jumper is a diode that isn't wired or working correctly?
Type of solenoid determines how it is to be wired, lots of variables. It can be determined which sol you have and the proper wiring for same. For now disconnect jumper and see what it does. Wiring diagram available from Vans and the solenoid manufacturer. Lots of information and help available.
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10-13-2020, 07:33 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 534
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Starting Issue Resolved
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidAhrens
Regarding starter won't disengage, check that jumper as cross the small terminal, don't believe that should be there. Is it possible that jumper is a diode that isn't wired or working correctly?
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You were right, the jumper wire with the new solenoid was the problem! Removed the jumper (wasn’t needed with new solenoid) conducted several continuity and starting tests and declared Victory! The EarthX battery engages the starter and definitely spins the engine much, much better than the old PC680. My goal accomplished!
As the second owner (non-builder) of an RV it’s always a learning curve when working on it. Some times I look at the build quality and the build decisions made by the builder and truly am impressed. Other times I discover things that make me question whether a little more attention (maybe less libation) would have significantly improved the build. I’m sure the next owner will feel the same way when he/she works on the airplane after my ownership ends. This is a great little RV and only getting better as upgrades are made.
Thanks to everyone who helped me resolve this issue and educate me on starting systems.
__________________
Jim Harris, ATP, T38, EC/KC-135A/E/R, 2008 RV7A, 2nd owner, N523RM (2015)
Superior XPIO-360, Hartzel CS prop, Aerotronics panel with Dual GRT Horizon WS, EIS, Garmin 340, 335 w/WAAS gps, Dual 430s (non-WAAS), TruTrak 385 A/P with auto-level, Electric trim, Tosten 6 button Military Grips, FlightBox wired to WS, Dynon D10A w/battery backup, 406 MHz ELT. Custom Interior, New TS Flightline hoses, Great POH!
Retired - Living the dream - going broke!
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10-13-2020, 08:31 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: LSGY
Posts: 3,198
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diode
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