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  #11  
Old 06-09-2005, 07:29 PM
fehdxl fehdxl is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bellevue, NE
Posts: 686
Default similarly...

Similar to Roberta's...this is what I used to paint an old Harley Sporter's oil tank, fuel tank, front/rear fenders, and a few other parts. Obviously too small for an airplane...but maybe okay for a priming booth.

What would I do different? (1) Would not use that type of furnace filter again. Too much restriction. That simple house fan on medium really pulled the plastic in tight. (2) Would probably put the fan on the intake side vice the exhaust side for the explosion protection. However, with the plastic booth under pressure, it sure would make sealing the door harder than with it under a slightly less than ambient pressure when the fan was on the exhaust side.

Just another data point. YMMV.

-Jim



[img=http://img297.echo.cx/img297/3522/motorcyclepaintbooth0033lt.th.jpg] [img=http://img297.echo.cx/img297/1866/motorcyclepaintbooth0020ba.th.jpg] [img=http://img297.echo.cx/img297/3170/motorcyclepaintbooth0017rf.th.jpg]

Last edited by fehdxl : 06-09-2005 at 07:36 PM.
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  #12  
Old 06-09-2005, 07:35 PM
N941WR's Avatar
N941WR N941WR is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
Default So Roberta...

"I successfully painted two airplanes this way. My SeaRey was awarded "Outstanding Homebuilt Seaplane" at EAA '02."

Hummmm....

How much to paint my RV-9, in say two years?
__________________
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RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
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Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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  #13  
Old 06-09-2005, 07:43 PM
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robertahegy robertahegy is offline
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Location: East Troy, WI
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Default

Sorry! The booth is long gone and my hubby says "No more painting!!" .

Roberta
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  #14  
Old 07-27-2005, 11:45 AM
mark manda's Avatar
mark manda mark manda is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bakersfield ,Calyfornia
Posts: 922
Default

thanks for all the booth tips. coming in handy right now, had a couple thousand ft. of used 1.5" PVC laying around so we're finished with the frame and working on the fan auxillary stuff etc.

mark
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  #15  
Old 07-31-2005, 01:28 PM
James at Air Colors
 
Posts: n/a
Default Paint booth issues

Hey guys, there are a couple of things you need to consider for these booth issues. For the CFM issue you need to consider the characteristics of the paint you are using. I have a 50 X 60 paint booth that we only have a exchange rate of 1 air replacement every 5 minutes. But, I use a paint that stays "open" for 3 hours and isn't dry to touch for 8 hours, so we never have to worry about hazing. If you are shooting in a booth and your paint skins over in 30 minutes and you still have mist in the air, you're going to haze over your paint. Check the paint dry times. For a booth as small as what you are probably using in a garage or t hangar, an exchange of 1 per minute is very good if your paint isn't a quick dry paint. Especially check clear coats, they usually dry much faster.
As for masks, you definetly need a full face, supplied air mask if your paint contains Isocyanates. Standard Organic Vapor cartridges like the 3M brand you get at your local paint supply store are inadequate as they do not stop Isocyanates. Isocyanates are also absorbed through the skin, YES SKIN, as well as the eyes and nose and mouth. So, be sure to wear gloves with the cuffs taped shut to your suit and wear a hood of some type with the neck area sealed with tape.
You can also absorb the Iso's while mixing if you are breathing the fumes directly, like when you stand up close to your paint container while stirring. The Isocyanates are in the hardener and they will be listed as Di-isocyanates or Poly-Isocyanates. These build up in your system like lead does and will cause a veritable plethora of health problems including short term issues with breathing, heart, nervous system, or even death if acute exposure is sufficient.
Also make sure you ground all parts to be painted, and make sure you groung the plastic sheeting you make your small booth from. It will build static from the air molecules being accelerated by the paint gun and will make you a smoking hole in the ground if you get a spark in a high concentration area, like, maybe your exhaust fan where all of the fumes and paint mist is being pulled to. The plastic can be grounded by taking heavy gauge stranded wire and stripping back the insulation to expose the strands,then spread the exposed srands out like fingers onto the plastic and tape them in place using aluminum metal tape and connect the other end to building ground.
The strands should be fairly long since the plastic doesn't conduct well and may build up a charge but not be able to dissipate it because the strands are too far away. This also helps keep the plastic from attracting dust because of a static build.
Keep in mind that you may not be able to feel the static if you are at the same voltage potential as the plastic, but it still may be there in other parts or even in the paint. We use an electro static system that requires all parts to be grounded and the paint is charged and thus drawn to the parts. So the seat of the pants method doesn't apply here when it comes to determining static build.
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  #16  
Old 11-20-2006, 06:38 PM
Whiskey Charlie Whiskey Charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Murphysboro, IL.
Posts: 125
Smile Paint Booth CFM

Most paint booths have 100-150 linear ft/min.
OSHA requires at least 100 linear ft/min.
The easy way to calculate this is by taking
the the total sq. ft. of your intake or exhaust filter wall
and multiply by 100.(Most booths have filters covering 2 whole walls)
This will give total cfm requirement to meet OSHA regs.
You can probably get by with 50 linear ft/min. but if you
go less than that you'll get alot of paint hanging around
and messing up your finish.

Also there is a risk of explosion depending on your paint.
I would never paint without an explosion-proof fan!

You can get ideas on paint booth designs at our website:

www.SprayShield.com

Chuck Stuhrenberg
RV-7A Flying
N180WC
RV-10 In the works
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  #17  
Old 11-20-2006, 07:57 PM
KTM520guy's Avatar
KTM520guy KTM520guy is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Texas, where else.
Posts: 450
Default

Since I paint RVs for a living I'll add my .02. I don't have any specifics in front of me so I'll give a general guide line. You want your fan to pull your overspray out of the booth but not so powerfull as to run the risk of pulling dirt into the booth and onto your paint. This not as big of a concern in purpose built paint booths as they are generally sealed pretty good and have intake air filters. Temp booths like the one shown in the earlier post and basic hangers used for painting can leak more unfiltered air. This can increase the trash in your paint job. That's not to say they are bad. Great results can be had. I've painted Lear jets in a booth made of PVC pipe and plastic sheeting, suspended from the rafters of an old crappy hanger.

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  #18  
Old 11-21-2006, 09:46 AM
trib trib is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 474
Thumbs up How did you fasten the zipper

Roberta,

The booth looks like a great creation! You could probably offer plans!

How did you fasten the zipper to the poly?

thanks, and I think I'll copy your design

Tim Ribble
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  #19  
Old 11-21-2006, 07:38 PM
Whiskey Charlie Whiskey Charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Murphysboro, IL.
Posts: 125
Default House Explosion - Be Careful When Painting In Your House

http://www.thekansascitychannel.com/...86/detail.html
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  #20  
Old 11-22-2006, 07:29 AM
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MrNomad MrNomad is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 823
Default Paint booth 101

I've been painting cars for 25 years using regular fans to exhaust the air. I've never had an explosion which is not to say it isn't possible. Every few years the fans die but the Home Depot aviation dept has lots of fans.

Exhaust vent the room at the bottom in one location and chest height at another location so you exhaust airborne and particles dropping to the floor.

Dampen the floor, use a/c filters for incoming air, hang a wet towel 6" away & in front of the vented air to capture overspray so that your neighbor's cars are not painted, make sure the compressed air goes thru water and oil filters, place your regulator & final filter at the gun, work with hvlp, enjoy.

Practice, practice, practice before squirting material. Wear a forced air, full face mask even when mixing materials & gloves. Don't believe the baloney about if you can't smell it, it won't kill you.

I like the Sharp Finex 300 gun which paints at 29lbs at the gun. Gets great results. I use a 1.8 tip for primer and 1.4 tip for base & clear. It's better than my old $300 Devilbiss.

You cannot have enough lite so you can see the glare as the paint or primer lays down. In addition to 13 overhead lites I welded a base to a Home Depot 48" fluorescent lite so I can stand it up and direct the glare down the side of flat panels. If you cannot see the paint build up on the panel, you cannot flow the right amount of material. It will either be too dry or too wet and sag.

Don't forget to allow for flash time between coats. Too many jobs are ruined by inadequate flash time.
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