Worktables

[Phil]

I can't tell you how excited I am. I'm preping my workspace and getting ready to start building. Hopefully I'll be underway by late summer.

I've read about work tables and work benches. Work benches are really for the heavy lifting, banging, vices, etc. But the work tables are for finese work and need to be perfectly flat and level.

Here are my basic questions.

Which tabletop surface is the best to remain unwarpped, durable, and level.

How do you go about leveling the table?

Any photos?

Thanks for your help!
Phil

[the_other_dougreeves]

Originally Posted by Phil

Which tabletop surface is the best to remain unwarpped, durable, and level.

I'd guess poured concrete is easy to get level and is going to stay that way ;-)

MDF isn't a bad choice for a table top - sturdy, can stand being drilled without loss of structure, normally quite flat...

[Rupester]

I used 3/4 particle board top and lower shelf, over 2x4 frame, ... the table is 3.5' x 7' and on lockable casters. I slopped a coat of Deft on to seal it and prevent water-induced swelling or bubbling. It's dead flat and working great after a year and a half. I'd do the same if I built another.

Rupester
Mahomet, IL
RV-9A QB fuse underway

[DaX]

Phil -

I am also at the very beginning of my build. Tomorrow I'm going to be constructing my work tables - I'm going with a modified version of the EAA Chapter 1000 Standardized Work Table outlined here. I want mine to be 36x72 and slightly taller than theirs. I will be using 3/4" MDF for the top and 15/32" sanded plywood for the bottom shelf. I figure I can build two for around $160. I plan on modifying one of them further by "sinking" my c-frame dimpler in it to be level with the top surface and tacking down some outdoor carpet for ease of sliding skins and panels on. The other I'll leave to just plain old MDF.

Hope that helps, and best of luck on your build!

Oh, also check out Mike's page - he is the one who showed me the link to the EAA tables and his modified size.

[jcoloccia]

I built a couple of the EAA tables but my favorite is the third one I made out of a solid core "fire door" I got at Home Depot or Lowes.

Here's a good shot of the table.

http://www.ballofshame.com/flying/rv...g/20060322.php

It's the only one I'm taking with me on my cross country move.

The EAA table are nice because you can line them up like this for long pieces

http://www.ballofshame.com/flying/Be...g/20061217.php

and then move them around to other areas of the shop to hold power tool or as general work tables when you're done with the long stuff. Also, notice the various overhangs (modification from the original plans). Super convenient for clamping things down.

If I had it to do all over again, I'd build all three all over again.

[RV7Factory]

I might catch a little heat for this comment, but I wouldn't spend too much time trying to get your tables perfectly level. That isn't to say you shouldn't try to build flat tables, just don't go overboard (IMHO). Assuming you are building one of the pre-punched kits, you really aren't relying on the table for alignment, you are just using at a work surface. Besides, you can level the table while it is in one part of your shop, only to find out it isn't level when you move it to another spot (floors not level).

Mikes got some nice tables, but I would make one suggestion... let the work surface overhang the edges 2-3" or so to give yourself something to clamp on to. BTW... I too used 3/4" MDF for a top.

Good luck!

[cnpeters]

I agree with Brad - no need to be dead flat. Mine is 3X8 feet. Leave an overhang for clamping. I used MDF - resists moisture absorption, doesn't warp, has mass, can accept screws well as opposed to particle board. Countersunk a space for the backriveting plate with a router. Whole thing on locking rollers to move around.

[AX-O]

Check these links out. Click me Click me too! So far I am very happy. I have 2 of them. The wheels are a must.

[jcoloccia]

Very nice! Could I suggest an improvement? I would orient the back rivet plate across the table instead. It will make it easier to do the skins since they won't be hanging off the table flopping around when the stiffener is lined up with the plate. Once again, otherwise very nice.

[Rupester]

John's right. It work way better with the plate oriented F-B rather than L-R. The bigger skins are clumsy enough as it is, let alone with them slapping your shoetops.

Rupester