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  #1  
Old 05-14-2020, 12:52 PM
KiloWhiskey1's Avatar
KiloWhiskey1 KiloWhiskey1 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Kennesaw, GA
Posts: 239
Default Please critique my electrical diagram

I'd like to get some feedback on a wiring diagram that I'm trying to finalize.

Full disclosure: this is for my Panther LSA build and not for an RV, but I do think it would be applicable to anyone that is at this stage in their RV build. If it helps, I have built two RV7s, partnered in an 8, and helped friends with two RV-10 builds. I also try to add value when I can here on VAF. And, for what it’s worth my engine for this build came off an RV-4 that I bought from a fellow VAF member, so my Panther is sorta-kinda RVish. If the moderators still think this is an out of bounds post, then please take it down.

So here is where I am so far. I have taken the Aeroelectric Z-11 diagram and changed it to include a B&C alternator w/ B&C external voltage regulator. I've also changed to dual PMags and a push button start switch.

The questions that I have are:

Do you see any mistakes or issues?

Would you take any of the components that I currently have on the endurance bus off and move them to the main bus? Rationale would help for learning purposes.

How do I figure out the best wire and fuse size for the wire that goes from the battery bus to the ebus switch (that wire will be less than 12” inches in my application)? Aeroelectric shows a 7amp fuse with a 16AWG wire, but my equipment list for the ebus is different, so the amp draw will be different vs the original Z-11 drawing.

Here is the link to my diagram:

https://i.imgur.com/UWrWLs3.jpg

Thanks for the help!

Keith
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Keith Ward
Current: RV-10 N253RV, RV-3 N235RV, Panther build progress
Sold: RV-7 N818PA, RV-7 N818KW, RV-8 N626JL, Christen Eagle II N56RJ

Last edited by KiloWhiskey1 : 05-14-2020 at 01:25 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-14-2020, 09:00 PM
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Nihon_Ni Nihon_Ni is offline
 
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Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 363
Default

You might consider moving the landing light to the Ess Bus. You can always decide not to use it if you're running out of electrons, but it might be nice to spend your last few amps on lighting the runway.
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  #3  
Old 05-15-2020, 08:06 AM
h&jeuropa h&jeuropa is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 308
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Keith,

I wired my Europa back in early 2000's in a very similar manner to what you have drawn.

Today I really question having independent Main Bus and Endurance Bus. Back then some avionics drew significant current but not so much today. Everything you show on the main bus has or requires it's own On Off switch, so you can turn off all that stuff pretty easily and quickly especially if you group the switches.

So my vote would be to have just one bus and eliminate the Endurance Bus.

You don't show toggle switches, but I'm sure you know that the GRT units do not have them built in, they are external supplied by you.

A small backup battery for EFIS and EIS will permit engine start without the EFIS rebooting. Although since I switched to a EarthX lithium my GRT stays up during engine start.

For the E Bus wire size, add up the amps and use the wire sizing chart in Aeroelectric. Remember to use the transmit amps on the comm.

Jim Butcher
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  #4  
Old 05-15-2020, 08:50 AM
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RV6_OKLA RV6_OKLA is offline
 
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The P-mags each need a normally closed test button on the power wires. Also, only one mag is used to provide tach signal.

I use a Battery Buss, Main Buss, and Avionics Buss system. No Essential Bus. I just turn stuff off if necessary.

I have my flaps and GPS on the Battery Buss. I like to be able to raise and lower flaps while working on the plane without powering up. I prefer to have the option to power up the GPS and enter routes before powering up.
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  #5  
Old 05-15-2020, 10:14 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h&jeuropa View Post
Today I really question having independent Main Bus and Endurance Bus.
For VFR, me too.

What started as an essential bus, a tool for rapid load shedding, became an endurance bus after folks decided everything up to and including their electric toothbrush was "essential".

KIS.
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  #6  
Old 05-15-2020, 11:09 AM
12vaitor 12vaitor is offline
 
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Location: Panama City, FL
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I would look at the Z-10 diagram for the P-Mags and Push-to-Start features and at a minimum, incorporate the brownout battery circuit. Z-10 also splits the L&R P-Mags to the Main Bus and Battery Bus.

John Salak
RV-12 N896HS
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  #7  
Old 05-15-2020, 01:00 PM
Desert Rat Desert Rat is offline
 
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Location: Wichita KS
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If I'm reading this correctly, it looks like the USB chargers and map lights are always hot?

If that were me, sooner or later I'd take off before sunup, forget that light was on, park it for a few days and come back to a dead ships battery.
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  #8  
Old 05-15-2020, 01:53 PM
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n82rb n82rb is offline
 
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Location: fort myers fl
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ditto on the items on the hot buss the onlything I have on a hot buss is my EI's. also, the alternate endurance bus feed going through a 7A fuse. with the loads on your endurance bus, it will possibly blow. look at your loads with the comm transmitting, adsb running ect. add up all the load, add a safety margin and size everything to handle that. when you are down to your last way to power things, the last thing you want is for it to go dark because you hit the trim switch at the wrong time.

if this is a VFR bird, I would not go through the trouble of multiple busses. main buss, split if you want an avionics buss and be done with it.

bob burns
RV-4 N82RB
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  #9  
Old 05-15-2020, 03:02 PM
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Champ Champ is offline
 
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Thread drift question - Keith - What software did you use to draw your electrical diagram? I need to convert my scribbles to real drawings and don?t want to draw everything from scratch. Something with a symbol library would be great.
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  #10  
Old 05-15-2020, 04:50 PM
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KiloWhiskey1 KiloWhiskey1 is offline
 
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Location: Kennesaw, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Champ View Post
Thread drift question - Keith - What software did you use to draw your electrical diagram? I need to convert my scribbles to real drawings and don?t want to draw everything from scratch. Something with a symbol library would be great.
My way was not the most elegant. I started by downloading the AeroElectric pdf of the figures from their website. From there I copied and pasted Z-11 into Excel. I then pasted blank text boxes over the areas that I wanted to ultimately change. I then copied parts of other figures from the AeroElectric pdf that I wanted to add (ie. small symbols, pmags, and the B&C voltage regulator). After I had everything the way I wanted it, I exported it back to adobe and created the pdf that?s in this thread. I?m pretty proficient with Excel, so it worked okay for me. I didn?t really want to learn a new Cad program, which seems to be how others have created theirs, so this was my way of avoiding that step.
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Current: RV-10 N253RV, RV-3 N235RV, Panther build progress
Sold: RV-7 N818PA, RV-7 N818KW, RV-8 N626JL, Christen Eagle II N56RJ
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