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  #1  
Old 04-21-2020, 10:13 AM
Reilly Reilly is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: South Africa
Posts: 65
Default Opinion on my canopy fairing please

Hi guys

My first fiberglass effort and not unhappy with it so far.

I would just like some opinions from the gurus on the area and gaps around the hinge bolt holes. I know its a less attractive part of the 12 but are mine too large or is this how it should be? I did take time to ensure that the bolt hole on the template was directly over the bolt.

Appreciate the feedback
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  #2  
Old 04-21-2020, 10:33 AM
NinerBikes NinerBikes is offline
 
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Location: Granada Hills
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What are we supposed to be looking at? No picture is appearing.
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  #3  
Old 04-21-2020, 10:52 AM
Reilly Reilly is offline
 
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Location: South Africa
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Sorry did not know that the way to post pics had changed. Hope you can see them
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  #4  
Old 04-21-2020, 11:08 AM
Reilly Reilly is offline
 
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Location: South Africa
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/67zrwwjxx4...63745.jpg?dl=0
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  #5  
Old 04-21-2020, 11:11 AM
Reilly Reilly is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: South Africa
Posts: 65
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/zf553xtrje...63807.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m3tgu3hhm6...65027.jpg?dl=0

Hope they visible now
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  #6  
Old 04-21-2020, 11:24 AM
DHeal DHeal is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Windsor, California
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Find a socket that fits the pivot bolt head. Wrap a couple of turns of electrical tape around the outer circumference of the socket. Put the socket on the bolt head and fill the outer gaps with fiberglass resin. Remove the socket and clean up the hole. After final painting you can cover the hole with a circular piece of tape or a snap-in grommet.
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EAA #23982 (circa 1965) - EAA Technical Counselor and Flight Advisor; CFI - A&I
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  #7  
Old 04-21-2020, 11:47 AM
Reilly Reilly is offline
 
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Location: South Africa
Posts: 65
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Thanks David that is my plan for the holes.
I am just not sure of the gaps forward and above of the bolt hole between the fiberglass and the top skin
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  #8  
Old 04-21-2020, 12:47 PM
DHeal DHeal is offline
 
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Location: Windsor, California
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Just trim those edges so that they don't rub on the aluminum panels when the canopy is opened and closed. Be sure to leave sufficient room for final paint thickness on both parts (fiberglass and aluminum). Also, be sure to trim the upper forward side portion of the canopy fairing so that you can access all of the screws in the avionics bay cover -- follow the plans. In some cases, cutting the clearances too closely may come back to haunt you as the airframe ages and is used.
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David Heal - Windsor, CA (near Santa Rosa)
EAA #23982 (circa 1965) - EAA Technical Counselor and Flight Advisor; CFI - A&I
RV-12 E-LSA #120496 (SV w/ AP and ADS-B 2020) - N124DH flying since March 2014 - 1,080+ hours (as of Oct 2021)!
VAF donation through June 2022.

Last edited by DHeal : 04-21-2020 at 12:51 PM.
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  #9  
Old 04-21-2020, 01:57 PM
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Janekom Janekom is offline
 
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Looking good Reilly
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  #10  
Old 04-21-2020, 04:45 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
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Default Fiberglass

Love the socket trick. Gotta remember that. Looks good. Not sure I would ness with the gap.
However, if you really want...
The gap can be fixed a couple ways. One is heat. Warm it with a heat gun or blow dryer till almost too hot to hold a hand on it. Any hotter and it bubbles and it's toast. Weight it down till it cools.
The other is to apply a release like packing tape to the fuse. Apply a bead of floxed epoxy. Close it so the flox mix squeezes into a seal. Leave it till it cures. Should fit perfect.
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Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
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I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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