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03-29-2020, 09:28 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: -
Posts: 65
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Ok everyone, thanks for that. So, fit them such that they can be removed as required, fair enough. Sounds sensible.
Using screws and tinnerman washers sounds like the easiest way, but I do like the idea of minimal visibility that the hinge method offers. If I went down the hinge route, how do you stop the hinge from pulling the rivets through the fibreglass on the wingtip half of the hinge? That must be quite difficult to reinforce, unlike the screw method by which a strip of aluminium can be riveted inbetween the nutplates and the fibreglass of the wingtip.
Thanks!
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03-29-2020, 09:35 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Carson City, NV
Posts: 497
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An adhesive under the aluminum strip or hinge would reinforce it well. Also, instead of tinnermans, consider thin SS flat washers, pressed in the appropriate dimple die. Smaller, clean and effective.
__________________
Joel
N626JA
RV-7A at CXP
Flying!
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03-29-2020, 09:36 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: LSGY
Posts: 3,214
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floating nutplates
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatRV
I just found out about the floating nutplates. Sometimes the handmade holes don't quite aligned and the floating nutplates saved the day.
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Indeed, they are really nice. I bought a big bag full at Oshkosh from one of the tent dealers there - it was no where near as expensive as the normal price.
The nice thing is that the screws line up perfectly with the dimpled hole, no sideways stresses.
The torx screws make it fast and easy to install and remove with an electric screwdriver without worrying about stripping the head.
Be careful riveting the floating nutplate on - if you are not lined up right with the rivet you can pinch the nutplate and it won't move freely.
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03-29-2020, 09:45 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Willis Gliderport
Posts: 185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad
I built my RV simple. Used pulled rivets per plans. I have position lights only in my wingtips and bulbs/connectors are easily inspectable. However, through 9 years of flying I had to remove the tips twice. Once I hit a hard snow bank while taxiing and second time buchered both leading edges on rollout. I would install screws or combination screws/hinges if I do it again. It would make repairs easier 
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Always learning from others....snow bank..check, do not hit. Got it.
Rollout...do not butcher leading edges....??  Overrun into corn field maybe?? Flock of boids....??
R
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03-29-2020, 10:54 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Southern Michigan
Posts: 1,969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by climberrn
An adhesive under the aluminum strip or hinge would reinforce it well. Also, instead of tinnermans, consider thin SS flat washers, pressed in the appropriate dimple die. Smaller, clean and effective.
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I prep both surfaces and then Fay Seal all my hinges and backing aluminum for fiberglass parts with Pro-Seal, then rivet after they Pro-Seal is set.
__________________
David C.
Howell, MI
RV-10: #41686 Under Construction
RV-9A: #90949 Under Construction
RV-10: #40637 Completed/Sold 2016
Cozy MKIV:#656 Completed/Sold 2007
"Donor Exempt" but donated through Dec. 2020
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03-29-2020, 07:30 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posts: 696
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If it?s a taildragger consider making it removable. Ground loops are hard on wingtips.......
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Blain
R-22 sold.
RV-8 AW Cert 02-09-17
N82 Sierra Tango
Avatar courtesy of AircraftStickers.com!
Dues gladly paid thru Nov. 2020(my reminder ).
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03-29-2020, 08:06 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,374
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Probably depends on what you put in the wing tips. I have my APRS antenna and unit in there. I had to replace the antenna a few years ago when it stopped sending out packets. Found a loose wire. I know others with Archer COM/NAV antennas in the wing tips. Most likely you will want to inspect in there at some point down the road, or add/change something.
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03-29-2020, 08:08 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsr3
I've got to that stage of the build where I'm giving thought to attaching the wing tips. I've seen different methods of attaching them, such as:
- pulled rivets
- screws
- hinges
I think I'm unlikely to remove them once they're on - even with annual inspections I can't see that there will be a great deal to be gained from taking them off, when a borescope could do the same thing?
If anybody would be good enough to explain their reasoning for their chosen method of attaching the wing tips that would be very useful.
Thanks in advance!
Rob
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- hinge would be my vote. Easy, no paint damage removal. Never say never. You will end up back in there for some reason.
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Brian J.
Boston, MA
RV8 Based at ORH - Purchased
RV8 - The Project #83313 - Under Construction
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03-29-2020, 11:01 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Brookshire, TX
Posts: 1,038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northernliving
- hinge would be my vote. Easy, no paint damage removal. Never say never. You will end up back in there for some reason.
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Plus the hinge setup looks super slick! (at least to my eyes)
__________________
Philip
-8 fuselage in progress (remember when I thought the wing kit had a lot of parts? HAHAHAHAHA)
http://rv.squawk1200.net
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03-30-2020, 10:29 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: -
Posts: 65
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Ok - hinge set up it is, then. That was my initial thought but as time went by I thought that just blind riveting them on would be quick and easy.. i.e. Lazy!
Final thought - I think - would you recommend using AD4 rivets to put the hinge on so that the rivet head is a bit bigger and more reluctant to pull through the fibreglass?
Thanks for taking the time to reply everyone, it is really appreciated.
Rob
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