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  #11  
Old 03-30-2020, 02:29 AM
TASEsq TASEsq is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 279
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In the end I just went with about a 1/32 even gap. Looks good and I?ll leave it as it is. Thanks for the advice.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/zVTHpxwr1CJTJ4y1A


https://photos.app.goo.gl/TD7kU9znvxoqMLin8
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  #12  
Old 03-30-2020, 05:24 AM
TASEsq TASEsq is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 279
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While I am on this step, can anyone clear up a plans confusion for me.

Page 12-11:
Quote:
Step 6: Dimple the upper aft hole in the empennage gap covers for the head of a flush #6 screw. See Figure 2.

Dimple the corresponding holes in the Vertical Stabilizer Assembly as shown in Figure 2. These dimples may be finished with a machine countersink if required to achieve a better final fit with the empennage gap covers.
But on page 12-12:
Quote:
Step 3: Machine countersink the aft #27 hole on both sides of the Vertical Stabilizer Assembly to accept the dimpled F-14111-L & -R Empennage Gap Covers. See Figure 2.
There is a callout for a k1000 nutplate here on page 12-12 so Im guessing countersinking is the go, but the skin seems pretty thin but has a rib underneath it.

Can’t find much on this in the forums or gotchas or on others blogs.
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Aug 2021
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