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  #11  
Old 03-06-2020, 05:59 PM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph Inkster View Post
I thought of carriage bolts initially but the ones in our local hardware store looked pretty crude & maybe brittle.
This is what caused the one accident I am aware of. You absolutely don?t want to use a cheap or unknown grade bolt. The accident also involved how the guy used the jacks. He did not raise the tail and put a side load on his cheap bolts, which snapped. There is a conversation about this accident somewhere in the archives.

I always insure my bolts are perpendicular to the jack, or as close as I can get them. Probably overkill for a grade5 or 8 bolt, but I don?t want to put them in shear regardless.
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  #12  
Old 03-06-2020, 06:20 PM
Ralph Inkster Ralph Inkster is offline
 
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Another consideration is do not use a bolt that is too long!
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  #13  
Old 03-06-2020, 06:26 PM
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fl-mike fl-mike is offline
 
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Or just bolt a 1-1/8? or so 3/8 drive socket into the tie down and run the jack ram into that. No jack mod required. Been working for me and the local gang for over a decade. I put a UHMW tape covered fender washer between the socket and skin to protect the paint.
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  #14  
Old 03-06-2020, 07:03 PM
Northernliving Northernliving is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boston, MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Melton View Post
Cleveland tool makes a tie down that I use as a jack point. I never take them out.

https://www.cleavelandtool.com/colle...18378247110718
Wow Steve, Those look really nice! Thanks for the link.
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  #15  
Old 03-16-2020, 06:17 PM
Doug Rohrer Doug Rohrer is offline
 
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Location: Bowling Green, KY
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Default Angle the Jack

For best results and safety, you need to angle the jack outward at the base. The angle at the jackpoint gets surprisingly large and scary looking as you raise the wing high enough to get the tire off the ground.
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  #16  
Old 03-16-2020, 08:47 PM
JDeanda JDeanda is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Ventura, CA
Posts: 151
Default An Allen Head Bolt

I use a 1? stainless allen head bolt with a large area washer under the head. I snug it to the bottom of the wing and lift away with my short wing jack. (got lucky on a pair of jacks intended for low wing Pipers). Stainless just because it looks cool, plain steel would be just as good. I don?t use that hole for the tiedown any more after installing spring loaded retractable tiedowns in the wingtips.
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  #17  
Old 03-16-2020, 09:31 PM
Alchemist Alchemist is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Glasgow, KY
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Our solution.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pKFMmQQFderDY2z47
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  #18  
Old 03-17-2020, 12:12 AM
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bruceh bruceh is offline
 
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I just bought some large steel pipe caps, drilled them in the center, and inserted a grade 8 bolt and put a washer and nut to hold it in place to capture the hydraulic ram from the jack.



Easy project at minimal cost and they have performed just fine for jacking up the airplane.
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  #19  
Old 03-17-2020, 07:59 AM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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Ditto for me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceh View Post
I just bought some large steel pipe caps, drilled them in the center, and inserted a grade 8 bolt and put a washer and nut to hold it in place to capture the hydraulic ram from the jack.



Easy project at minimal cost and they have performed just fine for jacking up the airplane.
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  #20  
Old 03-17-2020, 08:10 AM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Rohrer View Post
For best results and safety, you need to angle the jack outward at the base. The angle at the jackpoint gets surprisingly large and scary looking as you raise the wing high enough to get the tire off the ground.
Raise the tail.
It is really important to raise the tail and reduce that angle. The one accident I am aware of used hardware store bolts and did not raise the tail putting the cheap bolts in shear. He might have been fine if he raised the tail but still use quality bolts or an engineered product.
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