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  #1  
Old 05-22-2007, 08:18 AM
Brian Vickers Brian Vickers is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bainbridge Island, WA
Posts: 333
Default Piston connecting rod pin removal

I can't get the plugs out to remove the pins. The overhaul manual says to remove them with a special tool. I tried gently tapping them through with a rawhide mallet and wood block. The installation side of the explanation says they should be "palm or hand push fit." Obewan Kanobee, the force is not with me!!!

Sincerely, Brian Vickers RV4, finishing
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  #2  
Old 05-22-2007, 08:33 AM
alame alame is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kelowna, B.C.
Posts: 22
Default

hit em harder, they are probably varnished in some, I have a nylon wrist pin tool for smacking them out, make sure you back up the other side of the piston before you tap them out, they are an aluminum plug that is supposed to "float"
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  #3  
Old 05-22-2007, 08:41 AM
Yukon Yukon is offline
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Phoenix, Az
Posts: 920
Default Piston pin removal

Heat the piston with a heat gun or propane torch. Support the piston so as not to put strain on rod when tapping the pin. WD-40 will help. Two sets of hands works best. Use a brass punch, not steel. If you can't remove the plugs individually, tap the pin to one side, remove one plug, re-heat , spray some more WD-40, and tap the pin out the other way.

Last edited by Yukon : 05-22-2007 at 08:45 AM.
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  #4  
Old 05-22-2007, 08:48 AM
Mark Burns's Avatar
Mark Burns Mark Burns is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ruston, Louisiana
Posts: 878
Default Piston pin removal

Brian,
If they are Superior pins the plugs don't come out! They are pressed in.
I found out the hard way. New pins are about $45

What ever brand they are you just have to hammer them out with a wood or plastic dowel. They are tight because of the varnish (cooked oil) on them.
And be sure to "back up" the piston like the previous poster suggested. I've been told you can bend the rods if you get too carried away.

If you are doing a complete teardown you may want to remove the rod bolts and take the whole assembly to the bench to get it apart. I didn't do this but now I'm wondering why I didn't.

Hope this helps,
Mark
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Last edited by Mark Burns : 05-22-2007 at 09:20 AM.
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  #5  
Old 05-22-2007, 09:05 AM
Brian Vickers Brian Vickers is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bainbridge Island, WA
Posts: 333
Default Big thanks guys!

I am starting a complete overhaul so Mark has a good point. Removal from the crank makes good sense. Much easier to work on the bend than kneeling on the floor next to the engine on a dolly. Thanks again. Now back to the shop!!!
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  #6  
Old 05-22-2007, 10:55 AM
zav6a zav6a is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sedalia, Colorado (KAPA)
Posts: 320
Default Hammer?

I personally would not get anywhere near it with a hammer. They should be pushed or pulled out without any side load on the rod whatsoever. The last time I did this I drilled and tapped the aluminum plugs and pulled them out using a puller. Too cheap to buy the Lycoming special tool. Needed new pins anyway.
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