Toolbox hinge rivets

Bruinpilot · #1 09-30-2019, 06:06 AM

I just started working on the toolbox practice kit and have come to a standstill with the hinge. I know from studying 43-13 that I need at least 3 times he rivet diameter for edge spacing. So I need a minimum of 3/16 on the hinge edge. Unfortunately as I lay the thing out it seems like if I want the lid to close properly, I need to scoot the hing up a bit, and the. I can only achieve 5/32 edge spacing for the rivets. Is this a problem, or am I doing something wrong?

wirejock · #2 09-30-2019, 08:36 AM

Excellent. You're correct and it's fabulous you are checking. However, for the toolbox, it won't be an issue. I would recommend countersinking the hinge. None of the hinges on an RV are dimpled. Tool box lid functions much better that way.

Bruinpilot · #3 09-30-2019, 08:41 AM

Thanks Larry. I appreciate it. Just trying to do everything the right way. (It?s a learning project after all, plus I?m doing it with my 6 year old and with his short attention span, it gives me plenty of opportunity to stop and think!)

I watched a guy build a toolbox on YouTube and he had issues with his lid and he supposed it was due to the dimpling. I imagine hat the countersinking may alleviate a bit of that issue. I just bought a 100 degree counter sink and a depth stop. I haven?t figured out how to set it yet, I imagine that I may over or under sink a bit until I?ve figured out how to dial it in.

Thanks again. I will go with the 5/32 edge spacing on the hinge!

Desert Rat · #4 09-30-2019, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruinpilot

... I just bought a 100 degree counter sink and a depth stop. I haven?t figured out how to set it yet, I imagine that I may over or under sink a bit until I?ve figured out how to dial it in....

FYI- on most microstops one tooth = .001 inches, either more or less depth, depending on which way you rotate the collar. I've always just set them by experimenting on a piece of scrap. I start out shallow and then drop a rivet in the hole and readjust a click or two deeper and hit it again. When I get it where I want it, I lock it down and put a piece of masking tape on the barrel so that I'm sure it stays put. Don't have to change it again unless I change to a different countersink bit.

rocketman1988 · #5 09-30-2019, 03:40 PM

Also remember to support the material being countersunk. If you do not, you will end up with inconsistent countersinks...

rvbuilder2002 · #6 09-30-2019, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruinpilot

I just started working on the toolbox practice kit and have come to a standstill with the hinge. I know from studying 43-13 that I need at least 3 times he rivet diameter for edge spacing. So I need a minimum of 3/16 on the hinge edge. Unfortunately as I lay the thing out it seems like if I want the lid to close properly, I need to scoot the hing up a bit, and the. I can only achieve 5/32 edge spacing for the rivets. Is this a problem, or am I doing something wrong?

Standard edge distance is 2D from hole center so your dimensions are acceptable.

Bruinpilot · #7 09-30-2019, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002

Standard edge distance is 2D from hole center so your dimensions are acceptable.

So wouldn?t I need an additional 32nd? Unless that is an acceptable margin of error?

When countersinking, I can?t use my microstop on the hinge because the eyelets interfere with its use. So, I started just using my drill press and setting the depth stop by messing with a scrap piece. How far should they be countersunk, exact, or proud by a hair to account for getting squished a bit by riveting?

wirejock · #8 09-30-2019, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruinpilot

So wouldn?t I need an additional 32nd? Unless that is an acceptable margin of error?

When countersinking, I can?t use my microstop on the hinge because the eyelets interfere with its use. So, I started just using my drill press and setting the depth stop by messing with a scrap piece. How far should they be countersunk, exact, or proud by a hair to account for getting squished a bit by riveting?

Scott is the expert. 2D from center of the hole to any edge. Your 3/16" is correct if measured from the center of the hole. 3/32" X 2= 3/16"
That said, it's a tool box but please continue double checking. If it were your airplane, then it would not be acceptable and a call to Vans would be in order.
Countersink so the rivet is flush when you drop one in the hole. If the cage won't fit, chuck the bit in the drill press and get close then move it to a deburring tool and finish by hand.

Bruinpilot · #9 10-01-2019, 05:33 AM

Thanks y?all. Appreciate the excellent info. The toolbox is teaching me more than expected!

Bruinpilot · #10 10-08-2019, 03:55 AM

I think the hardest thing on this project was bending the handle. I never quite got the radius of the bends exactly correct. It looks ok on there and works fine but I wanted it to be exact. I ended up heating the wire with map gas and bending it around a screwdriver which matched the radius in the plans. It was pretty close. The legs were just right just the bends were not quite as tight. Is there a trick to get this exact?