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  #41  
Old 08-29-2019, 09:31 AM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sblack View Post
I think the original poster has said more than once that there are sanding scratches on the glass but they don't show up in the low res photos. I agree that it looks shiny, which is bad, but he says that is not the case. I agree that an internal joggle would be a better design as it would natural resist the pressure loads. That is an area of accelerated air so low pressure. Glad nothing valuable got sucked out!
Visible sanding scratches, and 100% sanded, are very different things.

I have seen many instances were someone thought their surface prep was ready for fiberglass and it wasn't. Even after they sanded some more, it still wasn't.

You are not sanding to make (just) scratches. You are sanding to abrade 100 % of the surface area. If you can look between the scratches and see surface area that isn't abraded, it is not sanded enough.
Best practice is to sand in multiple directions (length wise, cross wise, diagonal, etc.).
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  #42  
Old 08-29-2019, 10:22 AM
kkmarshall kkmarshall is offline
 
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Thanks for that input. I definitely plan to expend a lot of effort on surface prep!
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  #43  
Old 08-29-2019, 10:53 AM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
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Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
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I don't understand why Van's does not discuss adding a couple of bids over all the glass to cabin top joints. This would eliminate the classic "window framing" paint crack from people filling the joint with just micro before paint. It also provides a good second window retention element.

And - I know of no downside doing this.

What I did:
- Glue in the glass per plans, let set. Of interest I used the window adhesive prescribed for Lancairs - Hysol 9394
- Fill in the joint with micro and sand so the window is flush with the cabin top.
- Two bids of medium glass over the now sanded joint. The glass does not extend beyond the glue joint so you do not loose any window area. Peal Ply over the bids. Let set.
- Skim coat of micro over the glass and final sand to prep for paint.

The only thing I would change for the next RV-10 is shifting from fiberglass to carbon - I find it easier to work with.

Carl

Last edited by Carl Froehlich : 08-29-2019 at 11:59 AM.
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  #44  
Old 08-29-2019, 11:53 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Could someone identify the specific Weld-On and Lord adhesives discussed here? I'd like to look up the TDS for each.
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  #45  
Old 08-29-2019, 12:26 PM
sblack sblack is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkmarshall View Post
As for something getting sucked out,I wouldn't have believed it either,but I had a ball cap sitting on the back seat & it just sat there. Less wind in the cabin than in my pickup with the window down at 70 mph.
In that case just close the curtains and press on
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  #46  
Old 08-29-2019, 12:34 PM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
Could someone identify the specific Weld-On and Lord adhesives discussed here? I'd like to look up the TDS for each.
I used Lord 7545 for my windscreen and windows.
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  #47  
Old 08-29-2019, 12:57 PM
kkmarshall kkmarshall is offline
 
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Van's tech said it is Weld-on 10
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  #48  
Old 08-29-2019, 02:42 PM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
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Pretty sure t s Lord 7545 A/E
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  #49  
Old 08-29-2019, 02:50 PM
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snopercod snopercod is online now
 
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The procedure Carl Froehlich described is what I did, only I extended the 2 bid maybe 1/2" onto the plexiglass. As others have noted, due to Bernouilli's Theorem, the window wants to pop out at speed.
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  #50  
Old 08-31-2019, 10:43 PM
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Aerosport1 Aerosport1 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketman1988 View Post
Pretty sure t s Lord 7545 A/E
It?s not Lord it?s Weldon 10
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