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Insert Pics
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06-06-2019, 01:46 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: TX & CO
Posts: 465
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Tip-Up Canopy separation at seam up front
Caught this the other day, started seeing daylight, not sure what caused it, only has 640 hours. I've bumped my head on it on a few occasions because of turbulence, doubt that in itself would have done it. There were also a few times, when my struts were weakening, it slammed down shut. Maybe that contributed to it, but that's been over a year ago.
I inserted my key to get a better look, appears all of the heads of the blind rivets separated. I think I'll go back with 1.5-2X as many rivets, then also use a two-part epoxy to bind it back together, unless someone thinks that is not a good idea. If anyone has a particular rivet recommendation over another, and maybe the next size up, I'd like to hear what you have to say.
Anyone else had separation up front like this?

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06-06-2019, 10:59 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 3,821
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Picture is so close that I can't tell where it is at on the canopy.
What can also help is to post pictures using tips from here... "Insert Pics" located at the top left of this page.
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VAF #897 Warren Moretti
2019 =VAF= Dues PAID
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06-07-2019, 08:16 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Richmond Hill, GA (KLHW)
Posts: 2,183
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Guessing this is the aft end of the canopy and the rivet heads have sheared off, likely from twisting of the canopy by lifting from the side vs the center.
I'd consider using either epoxy/flox mix or proseal to bond it back together if you don't want to sand it down and re-rivet. Roughing and cleaning the two surfaces may prove challenging.
__________________
Ray
RV-7A - Slider - N495KL - First flt 27 Jan 17
O-360-A4M w/ AFP FM-150 FI, Dual PMags, Vetterman Trombone Exh, SkyTech starter, BandC Alt (PP failed after 226 hrs)
Catto 3 blade NLE, FlightLines Interior, James cowl, plenum & intake, Anti-Splat -14 seat mod and nose gear support
All lines by TSFlightLines (aka Hoser)
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06-07-2019, 09:41 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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I'm thinking it is the forward edge of the canopy.
And it is a RV-6 with a later canopy and not much space (almost none) to blend in the canopy to the metal with the glass.
I went for a metal trim at this location.
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
Last edited by az_gila : 06-07-2019 at 01:44 PM.
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06-07-2019, 03:35 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila
I'm thinking it is the forward edge of the canopy.
And it is a RV-6 with a later canopy and not much space (almost none) to blend in the canopy to the metal with the glass.
I went for a metal trim at this location.
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Plus one for this.
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Mehrdad
N825SM RV7A - IO360M1B - SOLD
N825MS RV14A - IO390 - Flying
Dues paid
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06-08-2019, 04:15 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: TX & CO
Posts: 465
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Yes, it is front of the canopy for the RV-6, and I apologize for the large pic. And I did read from the ?insert pics? page, I did try a smaller pic, but it didn?t show as much clarity. I?ll try to figure a better way than large pic next time though. Definitely a pain to view.
A friend a hangar over gave me some good advice and the tools and materials to fix it. He seemed to think the rivet heads broke over time from vibration. He recommends not drilling those out, but running another row of CS-4 rivets, which I?ll countersink in, and using a drill specifically for fiberglass, and another drill for the aluminum. Hoping I can get away with just filling the heads with epoxy and micro balloons, but he seemed to think the material is a bit thin, I may have to run another layer of fiberglass. I hadn?t considered pro seal for extra support, will consider that as well. Thanks.
I was just curios if others had a break up front like this. If one does, I?ll document my work if it will help others.
I agree the roughing and cleaning will be the most difficult part, but I?ll take my time, want it to look as good as it did.
As always I appreciate the feedback from VAF.
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06-09-2019, 07:52 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 3,926
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FWIW, and keep in mind that my -6 has a formed aluminum fillet here, but mine is held on with flat head screws and nylock nuts... The fairing and skins were dimpled for this. With your thicker fibreglass filler, I would think you could countersink a flat-head screw into the fibreglass, and put nylock nuts on the back.
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Rob Prior
1996 RV-6 "Tweety" C-FRBP (formerly N196RV)
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06-09-2019, 04:39 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,515
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Do you have the canopy frame stiffeners?
John, that being a 6 (I have a 7) do you have the stiffener from the bottom of the canopy frame lateral spar up to the skin? I have the stiffener, but still have pressure lifting due to internal static pressure. All that load would cause the hinge bar loads to twist on the "spar" and could put significant loads on that glass-to-skin joint (and rivets).
Maybe other 6 owners/builders/operators to comment on the lifting and effect of that stiffener to help unload the joint and extend the life of your repair.
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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06-09-2019, 06:36 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: TX & CO
Posts: 465
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Rob, and Bill, I appreciate the additional feedback. Another friend suggested I might go with flat head screws and nylocks, countersink those into the fiberglass. Will order some of those as well, along with rivets, see which one might work best for me. I think my fillet area is fiberglass, wasn't aware some were aluminum.
Bill, I'm not sure what stiffeners you might be referring too. I'll later try to get a pic of the underside of my canopy, see if it is similar to yours.
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