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04-19-2019, 02:00 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: League city, TX
Posts: 544
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Empennage fairing hardware
Vans has you tap several places along the longeron for a No.6 screw. In the pic you can see where I have the fairing attached at the bottom. Without a nutplate to really grip the screw and hold it in place is there any alternative ideas to keeping those screws secure? I thought about a low strength Loctite, or some similar product. The final hardware will be a flush stainless screw with a tinnerman washer.
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Mark Malone, RV7
Wings complete, SB 14 complied with, canopy and cowling in progress, Up on the gear.
N442MM reserved
http://www.mykitlog.com/MikeMike
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04-19-2019, 02:41 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,642
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It's a non-issue in my experience. Properly tapped, and reasonably torqued, the screws will stay put just fine. I've never had one back out at all between condition inspections, 7 years running.
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Steve M.
Ellensburg WA
RV-9 Flying, 0-320, Catto
Donation reminder: Jan. 2021
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04-19-2019, 02:48 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,301
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And even if you lose one or two screws, it's a so-what. Non-structural piece held in place by air loads...
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RV-9A at KSAV (Savannah, GA; dual G3X Touch with autopilot, GTN650, GTX330ES, GDL52 ADSB-In)
Previously RV-4, RV-8, RV-8A, AirCam, Cessna 175
ATP CFII PhD, so I have no excuses when I screw up
2020 dues slightly overpaid
Retired - "They used to pay me to be good, now I'm good for nothing."
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04-19-2019, 03:09 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 2,587
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I have always use nutplates instead of relying on a #6 threaded hole in the aluminum longeron.
Carl
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04-19-2019, 03:43 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
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There is no issue with adding #6 nutplates on the inside, if you want.
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Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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04-19-2019, 04:27 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 2,861
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A bit tangential as your main question has been answered, but on the topic of hardware I swapped all of my #6 Phillips heads for torx heads as it?s ridiculously easy to strip the Phillips heads out.
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Todd "I drink and know things" Stovall
PP ASEL-IA
RV-10 N728TT - Flying!
WAR EAGLE!
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04-19-2019, 04:32 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: League city, TX
Posts: 544
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The problem with adding nut plates inside at this point is that the skin is already on. Would anyone care to share how they accomplished this. Thanks
__________________
Mark Malone, RV7
Wings complete, SB 14 complied with, canopy and cowling in progress, Up on the gear.
N442MM reserved
http://www.mykitlog.com/MikeMike
2020 Donation gladly paid..
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04-19-2019, 05:17 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Senoia, Georgia
Posts: 800
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A no. 8 screw will be more reliable and less prone to stripping if one gets heavy handed.
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Jerry Esquenazi
RV-8 N84JE
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04-19-2019, 05:34 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxrate
The problem with adding nut plates inside at this point is that the skin is already on. Would anyone care to share how they accomplished this. Thanks
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Simple. A spelunker partner. |
04-19-2019, 06:31 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Auburntsts
A bit tangential as your main question has been answered, but on the topic of hardware I swapped all of my #6 Phillips heads for torx heads as it?s ridiculously easy to strip the Phillips heads out.
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Just use ACR style driver bits from APEX and you won't strip them. 
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Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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