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  #1  
Old 04-08-2019, 04:08 AM
cajunwings cajunwings is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: new iberia la
Posts: 765
Default Question for 7/9 taildragger builders

I can?t find anything in the plans about trimming the firewall and/or belly skin where the main gear exits the fuselage. What did you do here and what tool did you use. Thanks.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
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  #2  
Old 04-08-2019, 05:09 AM
tgmillso tgmillso is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 774
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There doesn't need to be a lot. There's not a whole lot of movement in this location. It's hard to tell from the photograph, but I'd say there's somewhere around 3/16". Enough to not rub the powdercoat or paint off the mount when you are trying to install it, but not so much that's it ridiculous. That said, I still had heaps of painters tape on the engine mount to stop scratching during the install, so it didn't matter if it butted up by accident. I've actually got my cowling and gear leg fairings off for a 50 hr oil change/service, so I can take an actual measurement tomorrow if that makes you more comfortable. I just rough cut with a dremel reinforced cutting disc, and finished with a file then sanding drum.

Tom.
RV7

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  #3  
Old 04-09-2019, 05:51 AM
tgmillso tgmillso is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 774
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Measured tonight and it's closer to 3/32". The issue will really be that you may need to trim almost all the way back to the firewall, at least that was the case with my setup, and there's really not a lot of clearance between the gear legs and the firewall. At the end of the day all of this will be covered by the upper intersection fairings.

Tom.
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  #4  
Old 04-09-2019, 07:23 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,884
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Hi Don,

As to how: IIRC, I just hung/removed the bare mount by the top bolts and progressively trimmed until it cleared at the bottom. Check, remove, cut, repeat.

Again, if memory serves, I used a 1/2" dia *aluminum cutting* carbide burr in a small (Harbor Freight, ~$10) die grinder. The burr costs almost as much as the grinder. :-) It does take some practice if you've never used one. Make sure you have something to brace your hands against, and always feed the cutting side into the work. If you're well braced and take very light 'bites', it takes very little pressure. Keep the burr perpendicular to the work.

Charlie
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  #5  
Old 04-09-2019, 11:44 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,515
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I just took the gear leg, wrapped a strip of sand paper around it (the rolled kind) and gently rotated against the opening and checked often until it fit evenly. The mount frame was in place.

Edit: Post #6 is downright clever.
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RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”

Last edited by BillL : 04-09-2019 at 02:00 PM.
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  #6  
Old 04-09-2019, 12:29 PM
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Tdeman Tdeman is offline
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 57
Default Easy and Accurate

Here's how you can do it without any of the guess and check work. See the last pic of this post.

Mark it as shown then use a sanding drum on a die grinder to cut back just past the mark.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...9&postcount=30
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  #7  
Old 04-09-2019, 03:28 PM
cajunwings cajunwings is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: new iberia la
Posts: 765
Default Gear leg cut outs

Thanks Guys. Post 6 it is.


Don B
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