I hear you John. A lot of the composite guys strive for perfectly even 1/16" wide gaps (after paint) on cover plates, seams, canard junctions, etc. Looks nice. They are usually backed by a flange, just like our wheelpants.
You have a good point. It is unlikely that I'll leave .020" of primer on a male mold part, but I do think I will add a little gap to reduce the chance of edge chipping. Just put the nose cone back on the flat table and draw another trim line, perhaps the width of a new fineline Sharpie. I like Gil's suggestion too; use a few layers of tape when you do the fill step to get the gap you want.
The focus of this tip is how to straighten up the seam on the flanged half of the wheelpant. The no-flange half is easy to work.
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Dan Horton
RV-8 SS
Barrett IO-390
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