Best Center Console Height

[ppilotmike]

Originally Posted by rcoleman-10

Leo,

Thank you for the source information on your build log and thank you for the hard work you put into designing and fabricating the process and mold.

I have coordinated with Mike to use the mold. Thank you Mike. I look forward to a well functioning center console.

I will pay it forward to the community for those who would like to use it next.

Ron
Bastrop, Tx
3T5

Ron,

I've PM'd you the information for the next person in line, so you can coordinate with him.

Leo,

Thanks again, for sharing your hard work with other 10 builders.

Mike

[MauleDriver]

Originally Posted by leok

I made the mold. To get the height I sat in the seat and placed foam blocks of the proposed size to get a comfortable place to set my forearm.

Even though I used vacuum infusion process to mold, it is easier to lay up the old fashioned way with a little more resin. Somewhere in my Kitlog (signature line for link) are photos and a description of the whole process.

Somewhere in circulation is the mold I made/used for the overhead as well.

Good luck and feel free to ask me any questions.

I did something similar. You can see it here:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/catego...&category=8533
(the site was down today but i believe that is the correct page to see my center console)

I'd love to see any pics of your molds and/or the final product.

In my case I initially tried to 'cheat' on the proper approach by making a single female mold from the male plug with the intent of laying it up in one piece and using air pressure ports to blow the finished console free. It actually worked but the layup was heavier than desired due to the difficulty in accessing the female mold. So then I made two female half molds, did the layup there with the intent of joining the two halves later.

I know from RC composite fuselage work back in the 60s that the 2 half thing is the proper approach. But I also recall that joining the 2 halves accurately was frustrating and challenging. That's what I was trying to avoid. However, the initial one part mold turned out to be the perfect jig for aligning and joining the 2 finished halves. If it was for volume production, that would be the way to go. In my case it was just a lot of extra work that paid off.

For other console designers/builders/buyers, a couple of notes:

• I minimized the width of the console from top to bottom in order to not impinge on thigh room.
• There is enough room for an O2 tank to be enclosed by a thin profile console. Works great in my console.
• The console can be a great place to mount an iPad

The point about sturdiness is true in the case of a composite console; it is sturdy enough to lean my body weight on it without concern. It is removeable using 2 hinge pins.

For the OP: my console is 9.5" high from the surface of the tunnel. The padded top is 2" wide. No more is required for comfort and in fact may impinge on real or perceived cockpit room. It's 32" long to accomodate the O2 tank.

[lr172]

Originally Posted by MauleDriver

For the OP: my console is 9.5" high from the surface of the tunnel. The padded top is 2" wide. No more is required for comfort and in fact may impinge on real or perceived cockpit room. It's 32" long to accomodate the O2 tank.

Thanks for sharing the details of your approach. That is about the height that I came up with doing some experimentation with 2 x 4's. Is it 9.5" to the top of the hard console top, with 2" of foam on top of that?

I like the idea of tapering the width from the base to the top to preserve hip room.

Larry

[MauleDriver]

Originally Posted by lr172

Thanks for sharing the details of your approach. That is about the height that I came up with doing some experimentation with 2 x 4's. Is it 9.5" to the top of the hard console top, with 2" of foam on top of that?

I like the idea of tapering the width from the base to the top to preserve hip room.

Larry

It's 9.5 to top of foam. (The foam is less than 1/2")

I spent a lot of time getting the height right before committing to plugs and molds but to be frank, you could probably go plus/mins 2" without an issue.

[leok]

I am delighted to pass the mold on. Even though it is a lot less work to make a single part without the mold, making the part light is without the mold is tough. Then what to do with the mold? Passing it on seemed like a good idea. Gathering dust in my shop seemed like a waste.


When Kitlog starts working again, I'll post direct links to the process as well as the headset jacks that are located inside of the console. Nice, tidy and out of sight location to store the headsets in the plane. I plan on having the interior wrapped in felt and a few pockets inside.

Anyway, the 7 1/4 inches was a compromise. 2 inch foam is cheap and easy to mock up. If you are unsure of what you want, put the seats in, climb in and play around with some foam blocks. For me the most important items were size to fit two headsets, no impingement on occupant comfort, a place to rest my arm at a comfortable height and no impingement to ergonomics on the throttle quadrant and fuel valve.

[MauleDriver]

Kitlog is up and running again so both or our links are working.

You might try using the hinge attachment method that I used. It looks like it would work for you the same as it did for me. Very sturdy relative to side loads, which you will tend to put on the console during various in and out of the plane movements.

You stored headsets. I stored an O2 tank and the cannulas (I live east and rarely use it but when I do, it's a real mission saver. One other unexpected use I ran into is fishrods or other overly long items. When I fly to the Bahamas I'm able to stick a 2 piece flyrod and the oars for my inflatable kayak in the O2 tank space. Very handy.

I also included a storage compartment under the arm rest (it lifts up and rotates.

All Good! I think most RV10s would benefit from a center console. The plane feels super spacious without one but is more comfortable with it. I've flown it both ways but now never leave the console at home.

Thanks for sharing!

Originally Posted by leok

I am delighted to pass the mold on. Even though it is a lot less work to make a single part without the mold, making the part light is without the mold is tough. Then what to do with the mold? Passing it on seemed like a good idea. Gathering dust in my shop seemed like a waste.


When Kitlog starts working again, I'll post direct links to the process as well as the headset jacks that are located inside of the console. Nice, tidy and out of sight location to store the headsets in the plane. I plan on having the interior wrapped in felt and a few pockets inside.

Anyway, the 7 1/4 inches was a compromise. 2 inch foam is cheap and easy to mock up. If you are unsure of what you want, put the seats in, climb in and play around with some foam blocks. For me the most important items were size to fit two headsets, no impingement on occupant comfort, a place to rest my arm at a comfortable height and no impingement to ergonomics on the throttle quadrant and fuel valve.

[leok]

This is the link to the start of the console build:

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displa...223070&row=157

Here is a link to the audio jack location/install. I did not post a photo of the inside of the console. A set of jacks and USB plugs face inside the console for the front seats, the ones showing in the photo are for the rear seats. There is also a switch to kill all of the USB outlets in case I want to limit current draw when the engine is off:

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displa...=246393&row=85

Maule,

I already have 4 nut plates installed to the tunnel cover to attach. There is a Sub-D connector that comes up through the tunnel cover/bottom of the console to plug in all of the headset jacks. There is a separate plug for the USB jacks since they could pull up to 10 amps if all 6 were plugged in at once. I don't have any plans for removal except tunnel access, so I judged 4 screws wasn't an issue. I think your console is longer towards the rear.

[leok]

Bill,

BTW, I do like your attach method. If I was still working out what to do there, I would likely follow your lead. The 4 internal screws work well, but it's hard to beat pulling two pins.