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  #31  
Old 02-12-2019, 07:35 AM
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rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkervaski View Post
I'm just going to mix some Phillips X/C and some Aeroshell w100 Plus with some MMO and Camguard just to cover all the bases ... thanks everyone for their input

(I'll be marketing my new blend as Dr. B's RV Love Potion No. 1)
Just be sure to sell it for $10/qt. I'm sure you would get a lot of customers! Because spending more for something ALWAYS means its better.
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  #32  
Old 02-12-2019, 07:48 AM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketbob View Post
Because spending more for something ALWAYS means its better.
That's the mantra of us RV-10 builders.

So, where do I sign up for the new, improved oil?
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  #33  
Old 02-13-2019, 06:55 PM
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bhester bhester is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hopkinsville, KY
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Default 15W50 or 100w?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketbob View Post
I use it to remove the s*** Aeroshell leaves behind. Works great for that.
Bob, you say Aeroshell. Are you talking about both 15W50 and 100W, or just 100W? I’ve been using Exxon Elite 20W50 and I’m about to switch to either Aeroshell 15W50 witch sounds like it’s the closest match or Phillips XC 20W50.
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Last edited by bhester : 02-13-2019 at 06:58 PM.
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  #34  
Old 06-20-2020, 06:54 AM
Amazon-1 Amazon-1 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 41
Default Engine Break-in - Brand new Thunderbolt IO-390

I received the engine from Van's about a month ago. It's still in the box but I am hoping to be ready to hang it in the next two to three weeks.

A few questions from those who have already gotten to this point:

1) Is there any oil in the engine now? I assume yes, since it must have been run at the factory, right?

2) If yes, am I supposed to leave that oil in there for the first several hours or do I change it to new mineral oil for the first start?

3) What is the recommended oil change interval for a new engine using mineral oil? I have heard 10, 25 and 50 hours but when I looked at the Lycoming 1014M instruction it doesn't say anything.

4) Should I use the LW-16702 additive that Lycoming references? They say it "may be used" but do not describe when or why (or even what it does)?

5) The Lycoming instruction says to use mineral oil until consumption stabilizes or until 50 hours. How will I know when consumption stabilizes?

6) What is the "expected" consumption during break-in?

7) Lastly, any guidance on first start procedure? I know I am supposed to run the engine "hard" at first to seat the rings, but other than that what should I do? Do I need to prep the engine in any way prior to first start?

Thanks for any advice and insight.
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2003 RV-8, N297NW, bought, flown, sold (~600 hours)
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  #35  
Old 06-20-2020, 08:01 AM
NewbRVator NewbRVator is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plummit View Post
The only thing this thread is missing is a review of an engine running MMO! ;-)

-Marc
DUDE!!!

I just added MMO to my engine and guess what it likes it ?- a lot!!!
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  #36  
Old 06-20-2020, 08:08 AM
Jpm757 Jpm757 is offline
 
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8oz. MMO at every oil change. All my engines have used it for years, excellent upper cylinder lubricant.
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  #37  
Old 06-20-2020, 09:11 AM
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F1Boss F1Boss is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Taylor Texas
Posts: 811
Default AMSOIL

Developed for aircraft engines at the outset - is ashless/dispersent, but you won't find that written anywhere except in a very old TAP publication - which is now only electronic. Too slippery for break-in, I am told.

Have a chat with the Reno boys who get ~1000HP @ ~100"MP @2800RPM out of 550/540 cu in - none of those fellas are using straight aircraft oil. One fella flies in from the E Coast and goes thru the racing cycles, then changes oil and flies his plane home. How would you argue brands of oil with that success rate?

I had a 540 torn down for upgrades (pistons, induction etc) and the mechanic called me to ask what the heck oil I used - the engine looked new inside. AMSOIL 20W-50 for 250 hours was the treatment. Good enough for me.

If you want semi-synth oil, add 25% of your favorite synth to Phillips X-CY.

This ain't Rocket Science!
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Last edited by F1Boss : 06-20-2020 at 09:12 AM. Reason: spellling...and more....
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  #38  
Old 06-20-2020, 10:15 AM
birddog486 birddog486 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: WI
Posts: 131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amazon-1 View Post
I received the engine from Van's about a month ago. It's still in the box but I am hoping to be ready to hang it in the next two to three weeks.

A few questions from those who have already gotten to this point:

1) Is there any oil in the engine now? I assume yes, since it must have been run at the factory, right? There's a small amount of preservative oil in the cylinders and possibly a little left in the case

2) If yes, am I supposed to leave that oil in there for the first several hours or do I change it to new mineral oil for the first start?Drain the oil from the cylinders before turning the engine over

3) What is the recommended oil change interval for a new engine using mineral oil? I have heard 10, 25 and 50 hours but when I looked at the Lycoming 1014M instruction it doesn't say anything.I used Phillips 20/50 type M for break in. changed at 5 hrs, 25 and 50. then went to Phillips 20w50X/C

4) Should I use the LW-16702 additive that Lycoming references? They say it "may be used" but do not describe when or why (or even what it does)?Not needed

5) The Lycoming instruction says to use mineral oil until consumption stabilizes or until 50 hours. How will I know when consumption stabilizes? It'll eat a lot of oil the first few hrs. just run the mineral oil until you hit 50

6) What is the "expected" consumption during break-in?About a qt. per hr for the first few

7) Lastly, any guidance on first start procedure? I know I am supposed to run the engine "hard" at first to seat the rings, but other than that what should I do? Do I need to prep the engine in any way prior to first start?

Thanks for any advice and insight.
info in red
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