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  #31  
Old 01-21-2019, 07:31 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,435
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Insulate the heck out of whatever you build. If you can, insulate under the floor, too. Too much insulation is almost enough.

I've heard that the very best hangar heat is a heated slab. My hangar has overhead forced-air and that's clearly not the best available. But my house has heated floors in a couple rooms, and that's deluxe. People have commented that overhead radiant heat can melt a canopy. Sure hope not, because that's what my shop has and someday I'll be working on the canopy. Guess I'll unplug the closest heater when I've gotten that far.

As for light, too much is almost enough. 'Nuf said.

Shop power, outlets, etc. Put them spaced closely together. Both my hangar and my shop have them convenient for a workbench and that works okay. But what the hangar really needs are a few buried flush in the floor, out away from the walls.

It would be good to have at least have a floor drain and a water spigot out there in the hangar, too. If it's close to the house you can probably omit a bathroom.

Along as we're on the subject of water, should there be a drain age slope to the floor? A friend has a perfectly level floor and reports that water sometimes comes in and doesn't run out. Some minor slope might be good - Ill leave it others to comment about that, though.

Oh - as for size, it doesn't matter. if you don't fill it, your friends will. No worries. A mostly empty hangar is like a vacuum. It doesn't last.

Dave
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  #32  
Old 01-21-2019, 07:41 PM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 2,189
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To add to the above post, we had a 60x72 and a 40x60 with heated slabs. We we in northern Wisconsin. The slabs are really nice, however, we ended up putting in a large forced air gas heater to bring the temps back rapidly after the door was open. The slab doesn?t recover the temp very quickly...

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