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  #1  
Old 12-01-2018, 06:31 PM
Girraf Girraf is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Southern Maryland
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Default How to set these?

Anyone have any suggestions for how to set these? Clearance is extremely tight for my tungsten bar and a 4" no hole yoke. Anyone use pull rivets here? These are the final rivets for my vertical stab and I set it aside a few weeks ago thinking I would have an epiphany at some point but I haven't come up with any grand ideas yet.



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  #2  
Old 12-01-2018, 07:05 PM
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fl-mike fl-mike is offline
 
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Grind a relief in the bucking bar.
And gauge your -4 shop heads. Look a little under driven, but could be the angle.
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  #3  
Old 12-01-2018, 07:26 PM
rhill rhill is offline
 
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Back Rivet with an extended off set ATS 2470-12D,lots of masking tape so you don't mark things up.
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  #4  
Old 12-01-2018, 07:33 PM
Tom023 Tom023 is offline
 
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Check the EAA.org video section for ?Indirect Riveting?
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  #5  
Old 12-01-2018, 07:38 PM
Girraf Girraf is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fl-mike View Post
Grind a relief in the bucking bar.
And gauge your -4 shop heads. Look a little under driven, but could be the angle.
It?s a camera trick. All those -4 rivets were gauged and are good to go. In fact I found the called out rivets to be longer than necessary. The shop heads are actually too wide to fit inside the gauge (yep using the correct gauge!) but they could be squished a little more if a larger diameter was acceptable.

Hasn?t considered back riveting. I?ll have to investigate that further.
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  #6  
Old 12-01-2018, 07:42 PM
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You can squeeze them using a no-hole yoke. Here is the how to help.
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Last edited by Vlad : 12-01-2018 at 07:49 PM.
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  #7  
Old 12-01-2018, 07:45 PM
Girraf Girraf is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom023 View Post
Check the EAA.org video section for ?Indirect Riveting?
Just checked out that video. I still need to fab up the steel tool that has the female 3/32 dimple in it which could double as that indirect rivet plate. I?ll try again on the no hole 4? yoke but I think this indirect method might be the way to go.
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  #8  
Old 12-01-2018, 07:50 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Have you bucked with the angled end of the tungsten bar yet? It should do that but practice and understand the dynamics before trying this.
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  #9  
Old 12-01-2018, 09:50 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Default Angle face

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillL View Post
Have you bucked with the angled end of the tungsten bar yet? It should do that but practice and understand the dynamics before trying this.
Agree. No problem. I use that face often.
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  #10  
Old 12-01-2018, 10:11 PM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Not sure what tungsten bar you have but you should be able to get to them with it. They won't be centered on the bar but you will have to learn how to adjust for that eventually so might as well be now.

I have custom ground/modified many steel bucking bars but no way am I grinding on my tungsten bar. The one I have helped me build the majority of my 7 and the emp parts of my 10 and works great in almost all situations without modification.

Mine looks something like this:



The 4" no hole should also work OK with these. Use a 3/8" dia flat set on the ram to make sure you get all of the manufactured head under the set. The flat spot on the yoke is large and should be fairly forgiving.
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