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  #1  
Old 03-31-2007, 10:19 AM
prkaye prkaye is offline
 
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Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Default vans pickup tube

For Vans pre-fab fuel pickup tube, does anybody know if the AN nut comes pre-drilled for the safety wire (as per the service bulletin) ?

Thanks!

Phil
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  #2  
Old 03-31-2007, 10:26 AM
jcoloccia jcoloccia is offline
 
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If you're talking about the flop tube, the answer is yes. At least the ones I bought came like that. Nice surprise.
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  #3  
Old 03-31-2007, 10:34 AM
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The standard Van's pickup tube (with the wire mesh screen Prosealed on the end) is pre-drilled per the service bulletin.
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  #4  
Old 03-31-2007, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
For Vans pre-fab fuel pickup tube, does anybody know if the AN nut comes pre-drilled for the safety wire.....
Yes it does.....but used with the anti-rotation bracket, the pre-drilled nut is a moot point.
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  #5  
Old 03-31-2007, 10:40 AM
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Like Rick said, the nut does come pre drilled but if you have the newer kit, it comes with this anti rotation bracket that he posted a picture of. You do not have to use the wire with that.

Rick you are taking "protecting the area from excess proseal" to a whole new level!
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Last edited by Brantel : 03-31-2007 at 10:43 AM.
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  #6  
Old 03-31-2007, 10:55 AM
prkaye prkaye is offline
 
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Ah, thanks! I do have that new type of anti-rotation bracket, and it did seem to me that the safety wire on top of that was overkill... good to know I was right.

Another thing that occurred to me is that with that anti-rotation bracket, it will be impossible to remove the pickup tube for service without drilling the rivets out and removing the bracket. Is this correct? Also, is it a pain to rivet that bracket on with the nut already in place? This is the only way I can see to do it.

Thanks again.
Phil
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  #7  
Old 03-31-2007, 05:31 PM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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You are correct, this is a one time thing. I would hope to never have to service this tube in my lifetime. Digging the proseal off of everything would be way worse than drilling out two rivets.

Anyway.. I set these rivets with a pneumatic squeezer, 4" no hole yoke and a small diameter long flat set. It just cleared everything and set the rivets.

You could buck them with a bar that has a tappered foot but it would jump around unless you clamped it good.

Vans calles out two -4 rivets but I used -3 because -4 is way overkill for this application and -3 was easier to set in those tight quarters.
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RV-10, #41942, N?????, Project Sold
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
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  #8  
Old 04-01-2007, 07:45 AM
prkaye prkaye is offline
 
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Default torque

My torque wrench is of the socket-type. How can I torque the AN nut on the pickup tube? I won't be able to get the socket over it because the tube will be in the way.
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  #9  
Old 04-01-2007, 09:09 AM
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You will need a crow's foot adapter. Just be sure to read about how to calculate its effect on the torque. A crow's foot is basically an open end wrench that fits on your normal square socket mount on your wrench.
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Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Project Sold
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
Like EAA Chapter 1494 on Facebook
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  #10  
Old 04-01-2007, 10:14 AM
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robertahegy robertahegy is offline
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My 7A has the anti-rotational brackets, but they are drilled round and only go over the fitting and not the AN nut. The style I have (circa 2003) allow the nut to be turned and tube removed and should be wired. I wonder when the change occurred. Was this done after Van's SB?

Roberta
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