Tilt canopy replacement

Bob Hoffman · #1 03-29-2007, 06:26 PM

Well I realy did it this time. I am rebuilding a RV6A "tilt" and somehow (without knowing it ) got paint stripper between the canopy and protective covering. Imagine my surprise ,when,after picking up the canopy / frame from the painter and removing the paper seeing all these spots where the striper "ate" away the plexi. To make matters worse I took my Dremmel (low speed) w/ buffing wheel and plexi polish and tried to buff them out --Folks DO NOT try this at home. Now it looks like a flys eye.
OK so I SCREWED UP -- So now what ??
Questions for all you who know better.
1- Does anyone have a "spare" tilt canopy they would like to sell ?
2- Since this was a finished plane should I try to dis-assemble the frame assembly and try to salvige what I can or should I see If I can get a new assembly and canopy and start from scratch -- Is that even possible?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Up to now I was enjoying this sooo much.

Bob

Mel · #2 03-29-2007, 06:41 PM

I've replaced several damaged canopies on tilt up models. It's no big deal. Just order a new canopy from Van and cut it to fit. Install it in the old frame. Don't try to fit a new frame to the airplane. It's much easier just to fit new plexi. Be sure the frame is on the fuselage while fitting the new canopy.

dan · #3 03-30-2007, 02:19 PM

Have you tried something like Micro-Mesh? (system of compounds & increasingly fine grit sanding materials) I would sure try that before I rebuilt the whole thing. Spruce sells it.

rvbuilder2002 · #4 03-30-2007, 03:19 PM

An even better alternative is this repair kit http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/...ct=scratch-off available from vans.

I have repaired some pretty bad scratch damage, etc. by sanding it out with 320 wet & dry, then working my way up through 400 and 600. Then use the four grit steps in the scratch off kit and the repair was impossible to detect.

cytoxin · #5 03-31-2007, 05:36 AM

been working on my canopy for a while now. (weeks

) and if theres any way to avoid it do so. as far as rebuilding the whole thing replacing the plexi would by far be easier. unless your viewing area is thinned to much for a repair i would certainly try some of the Aforementioned techniques.

Bob Hoffman · #6 04-01-2007, 12:24 PM

I had some of my RV neighbors over looking at it and the consensus is that I have nothing to loose by trying the kit Vans offers ($45 as opposed to $1000 for replacement

) If it works I save a lot of moola if not --well.
Thank you all for your helpful suggestions and help.
I will post the results
Hoping for the best
Bob

BillL · #7 10-02-2015, 05:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mel

I've replaced several damaged canopies on tilt up models. It's no big deal. Just order a new canopy from Van and cut it to fit. Install it in the old frame. Don't try to fit a new frame to the airplane. It's much easier just to fit new plexi. Be sure the frame is on the fuselage while fitting the new canopy.

I am waiting to finalize the canopy glassing step until the front skin is on. A smart friend researched West Epoxy and found it does not stick to the plexiglass very well. Confirmed by West tech rep.

So - thinking ahead, I really like the glass aerodynamic look as opposed to a fitted aluminum fairing. If West Systems G-Flex is used as a primer, then the 105 will stick like mad.

Now - to the thread topic - If the canopy is replaced, is the glass work ground off and replaced, or is the canopy pulled off ('cause it doesn't stick) and "reused"?

Mel?

rvbuilder2002 · #8 10-02-2015, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillL

I am waiting to finalize the canopy glassing step until the front skin is on. A smart friend researched West Epoxy and found it does not stick to the plexiglass very well. Confirmed by West tech rep.

So - thinking ahead, I really like the glass aerodynamic look as opposed to a fitted aluminum fairing. If West Systems G-Flex is used as a primer, then the 105 will stick like mad.

Now - to the thread topic - If the canopy is replaced, is the glass work ground off and replaced, or is the canopy pulled off ('cause it dosen't stick) and "reused"?

Mel?

If the plexi surface is prepared properly as described in the manual, it sticks pretty well (by evidence of 1000's of RV's flying with no other special process used)

In fact, it sticks well enough, that removing the canopy for replacement but still use the original fiberglass layup left in place is pretty unlikely.

BillL · #9 10-02-2015, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002

If the plexi surface is prepared properly as described in the manual, it sticks pretty well (by evidence of 1000's of RV's flying with no other special process used)

In fact, it sticks well enough, that removing the canopy for replacement but still use the original fiberglass layup left in place is pretty unlikely.

Thanks Scott. I have no doubt that "well enough" is satisfactory, but my friend tested it and while it stuck, it was not like it sticks to aluminum, or with G-Flex. Regardless, even it it is 100 psi, in this case, the justification of "1000's flying" is a good reference.

My main question was if it could be left in place, and you have answered that. Clearly by the age of this thread origin, replacement is not a big hurtle.

Since it seems to be a routine process (if not frequent), I will be sticking with the instructions and using glass - I really like the sleek look anyway.

Snowflake · #10 10-02-2015, 09:37 AM

Some careful metalwork can make some very nice looking fairings for the tip-up. I had to repair a crack in the frame of my tip-up and removing and replacing the bubble was trivial, apart from the ~100 screws holding it on. I have no concerns about a cracking canopy at any time in the future, as I can already see that it won't be that hard to put a new bubble on. Especially if it were installed with Sika, which would be my plan...