|
-
POSTING RULES

-
Donate yearly (please).
-
Advertise in here!
-
Today's Posts
|
Insert Pics
|

07-09-2018, 06:49 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Tacoma Wa
Posts: 19
|
|
Fuel tank Questions
So I am getting to the point I can start thinking about sealing up the tanks on my RV-7 build. I have a couple of questions for the group.
1. Flaring tools. Is there a need to flare something on the aircraft in a confined space? I am looking at the this flaring tool that wont work in a tight space.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...ringtools2.php . Is this something that should be a concern? I dont want to buy more than one tool if I can get a way with it.
2. Fuel return lines. How many people have needed them. I havent even started to think about engines but I dont want to have to install a fuel return line after the tank is sealed. Is it worth it to just install one now in case I need one later?
3. Cork gasket. I have been reading and it looks like some people recommend just using tank sealant in place of the rubber gasket. Has anyone had the cork gasket fail?
Thanks for reading my long post. I appreciate all the help this group provides.
|

07-09-2018, 07:05 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 2,587
|
|
I suspect you will get a lot of opinions - here are mine:
- The Rolo flaring tool (the one on your link) is the tool to use.
- I add a 1/4? AN bulkhead fitting to the left tank for fuel return. Trivial to do now. On the RV-10 I did not use it, so it just got a cap. On the RV-8 I got the Van?s engine with the AirFlow Performance injection system so I will be using the return line. Along the same topic, I added a 3/8? AN bulkhead fitting on the right tank in case I ever wanted to plumb a ferry tank. It will be capped until then. The plan being the ferry tank would be pumped into the right tank after the right tank is down 10 gallons or so.
- I built many tanks using the cork gasket. I put proseal on both sides of the gasket. My thought was that if I ever need to pull the access plate cutting through the gasket might be easier. Never had to do it, so no data point for you. I do not recommend using the float sender rubber gasket. Just proseal.
Carl
|

07-09-2018, 07:20 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,884
|
|
No doubt that's a great flairing tool, but I (and the person I borrow it from) have made a bunch of perfectly serviceable flairs using a 'skinny candy bar' shaped tool that's about 1/4 the price. Significantly more compact, as well. 'You pays your money, and you takes your choice.'
Adding a return line to a finished tank is a *lot* harder than capping an extra fitting....
Lots of cork (and rubber) gaskets have leaked. (Of course, lots of prosealed joints and rivets have leaked, too...) I started using this stuff:
https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...lange-sealant/
several years ago, and I haven't had a leak yet. No gasket; just the sealant. It never hardens, so if (when) you need to remove a cover to fix a proseal leak, it's very simple & easy to remove/replace the panels.
Charlie
|

07-09-2018, 07:34 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,428
|
|
My Cessna uses a cork gasket. When I install one, I coat it with oil on both sides. They seem to last a couple decades but then need replacement.
On my RV-3B, I used tank sealant, but I used the access hatch kind. It's an ugly pink-gray when mixed. Here's an example. I got mine from Skygeek.
Incidentally, there's also a Type A sealant that's like regular tank sealant except lower viscosity. It's handy to put on edges and individual rivets, using a syringe. FYI.
Dave
|

07-10-2018, 12:36 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Tacoma Wa
Posts: 19
|
|
Thanks for all the info. I appreciate the help.
|

07-10-2018, 07:42 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
Posts: 5,120
|
|
Add the return line now - so much easier today than after you seal the tanks, and you just cap it until/unless you need it.
I didn't use the cork gaskets, I just prosealed it straight onto the tank. I had to remove them once and it came apart fairly easily with a razor blade to start the separation and then a small flat-blade screwdriver and then a larger one.
__________________
Greg Niehues - SEL, IFR, Repairman Cert.
Garden City, TX VAF 2020 dues paid 
N16GN flying 700 hrs and counting; IO360, SDS, WWRV200, Dynon HDX, 430W
Built an off-plan RV9A with too much fuel and too much HP. Should drop dead any minute now.
|

07-10-2018, 08:05 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,931
|
|
Tanks
My flare took is a Rigid.
I didn't plumb for a return line. Sticking close to plan and the plans don't call for it.
Consider TS Flightlines for the more complicated lines like tank to valve. No need to fight with flaring inside the airplane.
I used the cork and Titeseal but plan to open the cover and seal it with proseal before final assembly.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
Last edited by wirejock : 07-10-2018 at 08:58 AM.
|

07-10-2018, 12:17 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: BC
Posts: 1,673
|
|
During the building phase, I plumbed return lines to both tanks through a duplex fuel selector. The return lines are used regularly by the purge valve (Airflow performance) and occasionally with a removable baggage area ferry tank. I’m very happy to have the return lines already in place.
Bevan
__________________
RV7A Flying since 2015
O-360-A1F6 (parallel valve) 180HP
Dual P-mags
Precision F.I. with AP purge valve
Vinyl Wrapped Exterior
Grand Rapids EFIS
Located in western Canada
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:48 PM.
|