UV Smooth Prime

[RandyAB]

Ok. Just tried spraying UVSP on a test piece. It's not recommended.

[rvbuilder2002]

Originally Posted by RandyAB

So I've tried applying the UVSP to one of the wingtips. I've tried dripping it on as well as brushing it on followed by squeegeeing it with a flat piece of 30 thou scrap aluminium. I find that it dries really fast and quickly becomes the consistency of drywall mud. in the end most of it gets scraped off which I suppose is ok I suppose because this layer is really intended only for the pinholes. When it dries I am going to sand it fair and roll or spray a layer over top and then re-sand. I wonder if Kyle or Scott would comment on whether this mimics their experience.

RV wing tips have gelcoat so they don't generally need any pinhole filling except for the area right along the mold seam on the edge.
Are you coating the entire wing tip with smooth prime?
If so, you are probably doing a bunch of unnecessary work.
That process is usually only required on non-gel coated parts (cowl, wheel pants, etc.) On the more rent part production, a switch has been made to gelcoating all parts so this work will be simplified on more recent finish kit deliveries.

Yes it does dry fast. That is one of it's primary benefits.
The goal is to squeegee it on and be removing all except for teh portion that fills in low spots and pin holes.

[DRMA]

Originally Posted by RandyAB

Ok. Just tried spraying UVSP on a test piece. It's not recommended.

After several tries, I was successful spraying UVSP by thinning it with 1 part water to 4 parts primer and using an HVLP gun with a 2.5 mm nozzle (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NOU92G..._t1_B001N1E9Y8 ). I used it on the interior of my RV-10 fiberglass cabin top, including carbon fiber overhead console. Tried using a roller but that didn?t work with all the tight curves and size of the cabin top. Also used it on the door interiors.

I did then sand most of it off before top coating. But it worked well for me on the inside surfaces. As for the outside, I intend to let the professional paint shop fill the pin holes, apply the primer, and then the paint. That way they can use materials and methods that they know work together, and they can be held fully responsible for the results.

Good luck

[RandyAB]

Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002

RV wing tips have gelcoat so they don't generally need any pinhole filling except for the area right along the mold seam on the edge.
Are you coating the entire wing tip with smooth prime?
If so, you are probably doing a bunch of unnecessary work.
That process is usually only required on non-gel coated parts (cowl, wheel pants, etc.) On the more rent part production, a switch has been made to gelcoating all parts so this work will be simplified on more recent finish kit deliveries.

Yes it does dry fast. That is one of it's primary benefits.
The goal is to squeegee it on and be removing all except for teh portion that fills in low spots and pin holes.

Ughhhh!!! Now you tell me! Actually, I installed the AeroLED cutouts to accommodate the lights so there was more filling to do. I did did do extra though. My cabin top is grey outside and pink inside. Is this gel coated?

[Electrogunner]

Originally Posted by RandyAB

Ughhhh!!! Now you tell me! Actually, I installed the AeroLED cutouts to accommodate the lights so there was more filling to do. I did did do extra though. My cabin top is grey outside and pink inside. Is this gel coated?

Yes the grey is gel coat. Minimizes alot of pinhole filling.

[rvbuilder2002]

Originally Posted by RandyAB

Ughhhh!!! Now you tell me! Actually, I installed the AeroLED cutouts to accommodate the lights so there was more filling to do. I did did do extra though. My cabin top is grey outside and pink inside. Is this gel coated?

The grey is gelcoat.

On pre-preg composite parts (like your cabin top and cowl) there may still be some surface texture caused by the cloth weave that needs to be filled.

The best process for things like this is to visually analyze the result of whatever process you are doing. I.E., the gelcoat is gray and the Smooth Prime is white. When you squeegee on smooth prime, is it leaving white spots in the grey surface (indicating that it is filling in voids or low spots)? If not, then you probably don't need to apply S. P. to the entire surface. But you probably still need to inspect the surface carefully to determine if there is any localized areas that need attention.

My experience with the gelcoated pre-preg parts is that the gelcoat is usually thick enough to sand with 220 and remove the surface texture, without sanding through to the fiberglass. In this case, it should be smooth with no pinholes in most all areas, and be ready for paint prep.

[RandyAB]

Thanks. One last easy question. What primer works well on the fibreglass? I used Akzo/Nobel for the interior but I'm sure that isn't appropriate to use in this application.

[ppilotmike]

..I'm enjoying reading/following this thread. I'm rough cutting my cabin top to fit right now, so the timing is perfect. Thanks Randy for starting it, and thanks to the people who've been answering the questions.

Here's a few more:
1)Where are you guys buying the UVSP?
2)Does it come in rattle cans, or buckets, like normal paint?
3)Do you have to mix it or just shake it?
4)Is it cheaper to use West Systems epoxy or the UVSP to fill pinholes?

[RandyAB]

Originally Posted by ppilotmike

..I'm enjoying reading/following this thread. I'm rough cutting my cabin top to fit right now, so the timing is perfect. Thanks Randy for starting it, and thanks to the people who've been answering the questions.

Here's a few more:
1)Where are you guys buying the UVSP?
2)Does it come in rattle cans, or buckets, like normal paint?
3)Do you have to mix it or just shake it?
4)Is it cheaper to use West Systems epoxy or the UVSP to fill pinholes?

You are most welcome Mike!

I bought it from ACS. It is non-hazardous so there were no Hazmat fees. It comes in a regular paint can either in quart size or gallon. Mixing was a hoot. All of the filler that they used settled and concreted in the bottom of the can. It wasn't going to mix easily by hand for sure. I transferred the contents of the can to a well cleaned plastic peanut butter jar, drilled a hole in the lid just large enough to allow a drill paint stirrer in and then put it on the drill press. It worked very well. I then transferred back to the original can. As far as cost is concerned. I would say that the epoxy would be cheaper. A little goes a long way with that.

[lr172]

Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002

RV wing tips have gelcoat so they don't generally need any pinhole filling except for the area right along the mold seam on the edge.
Are you coating the entire wing tip with smooth prime?
If so, you are probably doing a bunch of unnecessary work.
That process is usually only required on non-gel coated parts (cowl, wheel pants, etc.) On the more rent part production, a switch has been made to gelcoating all parts so this work will be simplified on more recent finish kit deliveries.

Yes it does dry fast. That is one of it's primary benefits.
The goal is to squeegee it on and be removing all except for teh portion that fills in low spots and pin holes.

Scott,

Do you know if the intersection fairings are now gelcoated or just the pants themselves? I planned on the RVbits intersection fairings, but may try the vans parts if they are now gelcoated. The previous ones were pretty rough.

Larry