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04-26-2018, 07:52 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 397
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Tips on drilling aileron bracket holes through aileron spar?
Well, after conferring with the mother ship, I've decided to bite the bullet and re-do both aileron spars on my '7 build. Fortunately I have not riveted the skins on yet. Here's the result of match drilling the bracket through to the spar without properly securing the workpieces:
This is the left one. The right one is a little better but still way larger than the acceptable diameter for AN3 bolts.
Problem with drilling these is that there are only two holes, so while drilling one hole, there's only a single cleco securing the parts together. I tried additionally holding the workpieces in place with a c-clamp and a small piece of wood, but obviously the bit still walked around unacceptably. Anyone have a good method/tool for match drilling these correctly?
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04-26-2018, 08:01 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
Posts: 5,668
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I would suggest using a piloted double margin drill.
http://www.panamericantool.com/doubl...s-nas-937.html
•Designed for close tolerance drilling in titanium, stainless, heat treated material and aluminum alloys. When the drill point penetrates enough for the second margin to contact the wall of the hole, the point is stabiized and true cylindrical geometry is established. Smooth accurate holes are produced and reaming can often be eliminated.
__________________
Walt Aronow, DFW, TX (52F)
EXP Aircraft Services LLC
Specializing in RV Condition Inspections, Maintenance, Avionics Upgrades
Dynamic Prop Balancing, Pitot-Static Altmeter/Transponder Certification
FAA Certified Repair Station, AP/IA/FCC GROL, EAA Technical Counselor
Authorized Garmin G3X Dealer/Installer
RV7A built 2004, 1700+ hrs, New Titan IO-370, Bendix Mags
Website: ExpAircraft.com, Email: walt@expaircraft.com, Cell: 972-746-5154
Last edited by Walt : 04-26-2018 at 08:04 PM.
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04-26-2018, 08:04 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,931
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Drill bushing
Use some sort of drill bushing. Pieces of brass tubing inserted into each other or a true bushing.
Other option is transfer punch. Drill the punch mark small and increase incrementally.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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04-26-2018, 08:07 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Dublin, CA
Posts: 1,259
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I'm not sure if it would work in this specific location but I find that small C clamps can be useful for holding pieces together. The 2" or 3" ones can be found at Lowe's or Home Depot for not much money. I think the ones I have are Irwin. I have about 8-10 of them. I put painters tape on the clamping surfaces to limit the scratching. These small clamps are light weight enough to be useful in many places were a larger clamp doesn't work too well.
Don't worry about this type of mistake. I've ruined several parts by not having them secured well enough.
__________________
Ray Tonks
2020 Donation Paid
Titan IOX-370, Dual PMAGs, 9.6:1 Pistons, FM-150
RV-7 Fuselage in progress
* Cabin Interior - In progress
RV-7 SB Wings
* Both Wings fully skinned
* Fuel Tanks Complete - No leaks finally
* Ailerons Complete
* Flaps Complete
RV-7 Empennage - Complete (a little fiberglass work left)
Vans Training Kit # 2 - Complete
RV-7 Preview Plans
Vans Training Kit #1 - Complete
EAA Sheet Metal Class - Complete
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04-26-2018, 09:01 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,515
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So that is why my ailerons are low! I suggest a 6" C-style vice grip clamp (no feet). Then take the ends and grind down the tips to fit within the hinge. The 6" frame is narrow enough to fit. That's my process for redrilling my hinges for a heavy wing.
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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04-27-2018, 04:03 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,690
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I can't tell you how I did my bracket drilling because it was too long ago for memory.
BUT.....
For a pre-drilled 2-hole assembly, only one 1 hole needs match drilling. You may choose the 'first' hole and open it up accurately on both parts, one at a time, not as assembly. Bolt it together using that hole. Clamp as appropriate. Match drill the other hole. The only positional error possible is then rotation around the first hole. For an aileron bracket, if you are able to not egg the second hole, position will be essentially perfect.
__________________
Bill Pendergrass
ME/AE '82
RV-7A: Flying since April 15, 2012. 850 hrs
YIO-360-M1B, mags, CS, GRT EX and WS H1s & A/P, Navworx
Unpainted, polished....kinda'... Eyeballin' vinyl really hard.
Yeah. The boss got a Silhouette Cameo 4 Xmas 2019.
Last edited by rzbill : 04-27-2018 at 04:06 AM.
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04-27-2018, 02:23 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 397
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Thanks everyone, I’ll give these tips a try. I remember having to use a lot of force on these holes too, my bits may not be sharp enough.
Last edited by Draker : 04-27-2018 at 07:13 PM.
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04-27-2018, 02:47 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,931
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Dull bits
Quote:
Originally Posted by Draker
Thanks ever, I’ll give these tips a try. I remember having to use a lot of force on these holes too, my bits may not be sharp enough.
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The enlarged hole is a common symptom of a dull bit. I lost a side skin that way. If a but doesn't feel right, toss it. Replace with new, start small and incrementally enlarge. Use light oil on steel.
High speed on aluminum. Low on steel. Let the bit do it's job.
BTW. When you get to stainless, buy several. It will dull a bit quickly. I replaced every 10 or so holes.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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04-28-2018, 01:27 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt
I would suggest using a piloted double margin drill.
http://www.panamericantool.com/doubl...s-nas-937.html
?Designed for close tolerance drilling in titanium, stainless, heat treated material and aluminum alloys. When the drill point penetrates enough for the second margin to contact the wall of the hole, the point is stabiized and true cylindrical geometry is established. Smooth accurate holes are produced and reaming can often be eliminated.
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Neat, but it's a pity the minimum order is for 6 of any one size. 
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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04-28-2018, 06:48 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
Posts: 5,668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila
Neat, but it's a pity the minimum order is for 6 of any one size. 
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Is it worth $25 to drill reamer quality holes, I guess not for everyone.
__________________
Walt Aronow, DFW, TX (52F)
EXP Aircraft Services LLC
Specializing in RV Condition Inspections, Maintenance, Avionics Upgrades
Dynamic Prop Balancing, Pitot-Static Altmeter/Transponder Certification
FAA Certified Repair Station, AP/IA/FCC GROL, EAA Technical Counselor
Authorized Garmin G3X Dealer/Installer
RV7A built 2004, 1700+ hrs, New Titan IO-370, Bendix Mags
Website: ExpAircraft.com, Email: walt@expaircraft.com, Cell: 972-746-5154
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