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03-10-2007, 07:56 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 8A7 (NC)
Posts: 319
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Cyl head oil return lines
I've heard that many of the high performance acro type flyers upgrade their
cylinder head oil return lines from the chinsey AL tube and rubber sleeve
setup to 'real' braided oil lines. Fewer leaks under the extreme
conditions. I'm hardly a competition acro guy myself, but I would like to
avoid the occasional leaks the stock setup provides.
Does anyone have specs on the hose fabrication or know if anyone offers the
four lines as a kit?
Thx,
__________________
Larry Bowen
RV-8 Built, sold, missed.
RV-7 Built, sold, missed.
RV-8 Emp in progress ...
RV-8A Purchased, flying.
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03-10-2007, 08:13 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,762
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Don't know why this should be a leak problem. It is simply a drain back. No pressure. I've never seen it to be a problem.
__________________
Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
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03-11-2007, 12:34 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia
Posts: 1,227
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Fancy Lines
Larry,
Cool idea, I've never seen it done, but I can picture it looking very race car looking. I don't see a problem with the top of the line. My question would be the case end. If the size was right, maybe just slide the braided line over the stub and use a clamp......just guessing as you have done...
I'll be following the thread to see if you get a good answer.
__________________
Bob Martin
RV-6, 0-360 Hartzell C/S, Tip up, 1200+TT
James extended cowl/plenum, induction, -8VS and Rudder. TSFlightline hoses. Oregon Aero leather seats.
D100-KMD150-660-TT ADI2- AS air/oil seperator. Vetterman exhaust with turndown tips.
Louisa, Virginia KLKU N94TB
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03-11-2007, 08:00 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 8A7 (NC)
Posts: 319
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My mechanic friend said the bottom fitting is replaced with a flex-line compatible fitting. Just unscrew the old, replace with new. Using a clamp instead would only provide half the benefit. No?
__________________
Larry Bowen
RV-8 Built, sold, missed.
RV-7 Built, sold, missed.
RV-8 Emp in progress ...
RV-8A Purchased, flying.
Last edited by N130WN : 03-11-2007 at 10:11 AM.
Reason: Typo
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03-11-2007, 08:08 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,024
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I don't see the issue with the OEM setup, but if you were going to replace the engine side fitting with a flared fitting why not make rigid lines with flares on each end instead of using a hose? Seems to me the rigid lines would be better then hoses.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at your own risk."
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03-11-2007, 08:42 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Paso Robles, CA
Posts: 1,177
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Expansion / Contraction
Quote:
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Originally Posted by mahlon_r
I don't see the issue with the OEM setup, but if you were going to replace the engine side fitting with a flared fitting why not make rigid lines with flares on each end instead of using a hose? Seems to me the rigid lines would be better then hoses.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at your own risk."
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The little bit of hose with the clamps allows for expansion and contraction differences. A full on solid line would be almost certain disaster sooner or later.
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03-11-2007, 10:06 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 8A7 (NC)
Posts: 319
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Yes, it was my assumption that the primary purpose of the rubber hose was for strain relief. No?
__________________
Larry Bowen
RV-8 Built, sold, missed.
RV-7 Built, sold, missed.
RV-8 Emp in progress ...
RV-8A Purchased, flying.
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03-11-2007, 10:53 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia
Posts: 1,227
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hoses
Just thinking out loud here, I like this thread.
The rubber connector is for strain relief, I'm assuming, but it may be for correct length too. We know the cylinder moves some while running.
Although more left to right, thats why we have an expansion joint in the side baffels. I doubt the length changes as the designer goes a long way to keep things together in the stroke deminsions. I see the challenge in getting the manufactured hose the correct length that would allow for "some" movement.
so maybe this design is already thought thru, or maybe the correct hose is a little long? When I was installing a oil seperator, I looked at how others ran the oil return line back to the engine sump via welding a WYE in the #3 return oil line. I was afraid of a failure in the part as it would allow the engine oil to escape, I elected to contain the small amount of oil and drain it with each oil change. I guess my point is, we have to be careful to not change the reliability while trying to improve the design.
That said, I still think it would be a cool idea.
__________________
Bob Martin
RV-6, 0-360 Hartzell C/S, Tip up, 1200+TT
James extended cowl/plenum, induction, -8VS and Rudder. TSFlightline hoses. Oregon Aero leather seats.
D100-KMD150-660-TT ADI2- AS air/oil seperator. Vetterman exhaust with turndown tips.
Louisa, Virginia KLKU N94TB
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03-12-2007, 05:12 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,024
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Boy, I don?t know what I was thinking, you are absolutely correct, flares on both ends would be disastrous!
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at your own risk."
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03-12-2007, 04:20 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pasadena CA
Posts: 2,484
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I've seen the normal oil hoses used, works fine. Teflon lifetime hoses would be my choice.
__________________
Stephen Samuelian, CFII, A&P IA, CTO
RV4 wing in Jig @ KPOC
RV7 emp built
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