Static Port Conundrum

mfleming · #1 03-14-2018, 11:15 AM

Installing the static ports (Dynon) was next on my list.

All was well, I had the port locations marked on both sides of the fuselage, researched wether I was going to use the Dynon ports or order the Van's rivets (Dynon) and was ready to drill the holes.

Annnnnd.... then I came across Van's Static Port Kit instructions.

The -7 plans show the static port location just ahead of bulkhead F-708. The Kit instruction show the static ports just ahead of bulkhead F-707.

Now, if push comes to shove...I'll install the ports where the -7 plans indicate. BUT, The kit instruction have their appeal due to the ports and tubing being one bulkhead further forward and I like that...less tubing, easier access...

I know this topic has been discussed almost as much as primer but I haven't seen any discussions on the merits of being at one bulkhead or the other.

Plans location with the kit location added.

The Static Kit instructions.

What do you think??

az_gila · #2 03-14-2018, 11:35 AM

I read it differently... the static kit instructions say that the picture shown is for a RV-6 and to use Drawing 28 from the -7 plans for a static location.

Go with the -7 plans.

mfleming · #3 03-14-2018, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by az_gila

I read it differently... the static kit instructions say that the picture shown is for a RV-6 and to use Drawing 28 from the -7 plans for a static location.

Go with the -7 plans.

How the heck did I miss that line

OK ... thoroughly embarrassed

Everyone can move on....nothing to see here ...

mike newall · #4 03-14-2018, 12:54 PM

Just before you continue......

The rivet needs good support before you knock out the mandrel.

We used a thick wall tube on the inside to support the structure and a correct sized punch. Deep breath and a good whack !

Enjoy.

airguy · #5 03-14-2018, 01:14 PM

And you might give some thought to strain relief on the tubing, or at least route it in such a way that it is nearly strain-free. I followed the instructions with my 9A and by the time it was ready for inspection one side had come off and I had to crawl back there and re-work them.

RV7 To Go · #6 03-14-2018, 01:45 PM

Just a comment on the static port itself, since the location is resolved.

I initially used the ACS "STATIC PORT ALUMINUM 15160" due to it's nicer connection to the line and my own stupidity. Big mistake. After much experimentation I have changed to the Vans rivet installed into the base of the old port for the best of both worlds. IAS is now finally accurate. Can't comment on the Dynon port but there are many posts regarding issues with non Vans rivet installations.

Al

mfleming · #7 03-14-2018, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RV7 To Go

Just a comment on the static port itself, since the location is resolved.

I initially used the ACS "STATIC PORT ALUMINUM 15160" due to it's nicer connection to the line and my own stupidity. Big mistake. After much experimentation I have changed to the Vans rivet installed into the base of the old port for the best of both worlds. IAS is now finally accurate. Can't comment on the Dynon port but there are many posts regarding issues with non Vans rivet installations.

Al

Yesterday I talked with Van's support (Eric). We discussed the various options. Van's sells the rivet and a nicer port that has a threaded connection. Basically the advice I received was, just don't use a flush port.

I have read about non rivet ports that caused all sorts headaches but others had fine results.

The fancy Van's port looks like it mimics the rivet head.

The Dynon port looks similar but the area behind the skin is much bigger.
I guess the only sure thing is using the rivet.

az_gila · #8 03-14-2018, 05:31 PM

The new Vans one looks similar to the ones from Cleaveland tools, but the Cleaveland one is designed to be bonded on and use a push-on tubing fitting.

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Push-O.../#.Wqmv8NJy5hE

The slightly raised portion fits though a 1/2 hole in the skin.

NOTE - These are quite different from the old ones I put on my -6A. The old ones (10+ years, I think from Cleaveland) were simply flush on the outside and just provided a barbed connection on the inside. They only worked properly after I bonded in a 3/16 flat head rivet and then filed it down to get less than 1 kt error.

wirejock · #9 03-14-2018, 05:44 PM

I will add to the confusion. I modified the SafeAir ports. Vans location.
Lots of threads on the mod. Basically the SafeAir port is drilled to accommodate the Vans rivet. It allows the use of the Vans rivet on the exterior for accuracy and the SafeAir fitting on the inside. I ran both to the top to a "T" then back down toward the Port side and forward to the ADAHRS.

BillL · #10 03-14-2018, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wirejock

I will add to the confusion. I modified the SafeAir ports. Vans location.
Lots of threads on the mod. Basically the SafeAir port is drilled to accommodate the Vans rivet. It allows the use of the Vans rivet on the exterior for accuracy and the SafeAir fitting on the inside. I ran both to the top to a "T" then back down toward the Port side and forward to the ADAHRS.

+1 It yielded a 0.12 kt TAS difference with GPS ground speed using 3 leg method (166KTAS). Has the print RV7 location.
That new button with the barb looks good!