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03-12-2018, 12:21 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Delaware, OH (KDLZ)
Posts: 4,196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila
If I read your blog pictures correctly, the 1/16 Fibrerfrax is sandwiched between the two skins (SS and original belly aluminum) by the same rivets that attach the skins to the fuselage ribs.
Wouldn't having this layer of Fiberfrax in the assembly screw up the structural integrity of the skin to rib riveted joint?
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I don't know how either Mike or Kyle assembled theirs, but I would not use the rivets in the plans to ensure no compromise to structural integrity. I would off set rivets lines dedicated to the stainless plate.
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03-12-2018, 01:10 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rleffler
I don't know how either Mike or Kyle assembled theirs, but I would not use the rivets in the plans to ensure no compromise to structural integrity. I would off set rivets lines dedicated to the stainless plate.
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That's what I did. The primary structure is per plans. The pop rivets for the overlay are just there to attach the stainless sheet.
__________________
Kyle Boatright
Marietta, GA
2001 RV-6 N46KB
2019(?) RV-10
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03-12-2018, 03:06 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,967
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My belly shield does, in fact, use the rivets that attach the ribs to the bottom skin. I used rivets slightly longer than the ones called for by the plans, in order to get the proper diameter/height on the shop head.
Keep in mind, that 1) my belly shield is not the full length of the bottom skin, only the first 18 inches or so, 2) the Fiberfrax crushes a little at the point of attachment, leaving very little thickness at the rivet lines and 3) the SS sheet would add a bit of tensile capacity to the bottom skin.
It would probably have been better to use separate/extra rivets to secure the SS sheet/FF to the belly (I thought of that for my firewall), but, for my small belly shield, I didn't do it that way.
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03-12-2018, 07:08 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH
Do this ^^^^^
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Dan,
Do you have any pictures of what that looks like?
Jeff
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Rudder - Complete
Horizontal Stabilizer - Complete
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03-12-2018, 09:19 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffwhip
Dan,
Do you have any pictures of what that looks like?
Jeff
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Here you go (I think)...

__________________
Kyle Boatright
Marietta, GA
2001 RV-6 N46KB
2019(?) RV-10
Last edited by Kyle Boatright : 03-12-2018 at 09:38 PM.
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03-17-2018, 04:33 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 160
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Thanks! That's what I'm looking for.
__________________
Rudder - Complete
Horizontal Stabilizer - Complete
Vertical Stabilizer - Complete
Elevators - Complete
Cabin Cover - Complete (wheewww!)
FWF - Complete
EFII 32 - In Progress
Dues Paid Through 2020
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03-17-2018, 04:53 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
Posts: 5,687
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If it was me, I'd want to be sure the underlying skin was carefully prepared and corrosion proofed before riveting a plate on. Once you install it inspection will become impossible, and there is a good chances of moisture getting in between the 2 skins and with the dissimilar metals it could be a problem down the road. It would be more work but maybe worthwhile if you're building to use screw/nutplates to intall the sandwich.
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Walt Aronow, DFW, TX (52F)
EXP Aircraft Services LLC
Specializing in RV Condition Inspections, Maintenance, Avionics Upgrades
Dynamic Prop Balancing, Pitot-Static Altmeter/Transponder Certification
FAA Certified Repair Station, AP/IA/FCC GROL, EAA Technical Counselor
Authorized Garmin G3X Dealer/Installer
RV7A built 2004, 1700+ hrs, New Titan IO-370, Bendix Mags
Website: ExpAircraft.com, Email: walt@expaircraft.com, Cell: 972-746-5154
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03-17-2018, 05:00 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt
If it was me, I'd want to be sure the underlying skin was carefully prepared and corrosion proofed before riveting a plate on. Once you install it inspection will become impossible, and there is a good chances of moisture getting in between the 2 skins and with the dissimilar metals it could be a problem down the road. It would be more work but maybe worthwhile if you're building to use screw/nutplates to intall the sandwich.
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Unless you start your -10 fuselage with this in mind, retrofitting nutplates under the floorboards will be a bear. That said, yes, do put a coat of epoxy or zinc chromate on the aluminum to protect it.
__________________
Kyle Boatright
Marietta, GA
2001 RV-6 N46KB
2019(?) RV-10
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03-18-2018, 08:46 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Brooksville, MS
Posts: 745
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Another one
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffwhip
Dan,
Do you have any pictures of what that looks like?
Jeff
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If I remember used 0.005" SS

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Weasel
RV-4 715hr Sold 
RV-10 "School Bus" -   +1600hr counting
Fisher Classic Cassler Power VW sold
RV-10 N7631T 820hr Sold
RV-8 700+hrs
Carbon Cub 200 hr Sold
One-Off Super Cub 100 hr
SERFI AWARDS
http://weaselrv10.blogspot.com/
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03-18-2018, 12:27 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 300
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Stupid question, what's the purpose here?
I can only think it is to insulate from the heat of the exhaust.
__________________
Matt
CFI / RV-10
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