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  #1  
Old 03-02-2018, 01:16 PM
unitink72 unitink72 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 243
Default Stripped?

Haven't quite figured out the quirks of nutplates yet i guess.

This is the tie-down AEX attached to the wing spar. The bolts here attach a powder coated bracket which I think is part of the aileron actuation bits and pieces.

Did I strip it? If so, do I need to drill out all the rivets to replace this nutplate? Or just change the bolt? I think this happened because my socket was too deep to help push those first few threads in. I have been using a dab of wax on the bolt.





Secondary question. I can't find torque values for bolts that go into nutplates, is there such a thing?
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  #2  
Old 03-02-2018, 01:18 PM
Mike S's Avatar
Mike S Mike S is offline
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Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
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Default

Build on------this is just the result of the nutplate doing its job.

Torque values given in section 5.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=134014
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Last edited by Mike S : 03-02-2018 at 02:05 PM.
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  #3  
Old 03-02-2018, 01:27 PM
Jaknjoan Jaknjoan is offline
 
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Posts: 246
Default Text book nutplate installation

It would appear you have a perfect installation. The nutplates are manufactured with the last few threads "squeezed" to provide locking which sometimes could make you think they're cross threaded.

In 30 years of building RVs I don't recall ever cross threading a nutplate.

Jake
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  #4  
Old 03-02-2018, 01:51 PM
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mike newall mike newall is offline
 
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Location: Yorkshire, England
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Default

Secondary question. I can't find torque values for bolts that go into nutplates, is there such a thing?

As others have said - all looks good and putting torque seal on is a bit overkill, you will not find one coming undone. Admire the attention to detail though.

Torque.

Here is a rough guide, it is not definitive and I am sure others will have differing opinions.

Most of the nutplates we use are for #6, #8, #10/AN3 and 1/4". None of them require big torque, in fact most require a surprisingly low torque. My 'go to' tool for any small nuts is a 1/4 drive, clutchless stubby drive like this

https://www.engineersmate.com/produc...-Drive/P131745

UK I know, but they are available everywhere.

Beauty is, if you use the stubby carefully, it is almost impossible to overtorque the smaller nuts and fasteners. If you are driving a bolt into a nutplate, or are driving a screw into a nutplate (invest in a Snap-On screwdriver) tighten it until you just feel the nip. Then no more than a 90° turn should do you fine.

Why not set up a test coupon on some scrap ? Get a known small nut/bolt combo, use the above method and then check with a torque wrench - bet they are close. Once you have calibrated your wrist, you can move on
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  #5  
Old 03-02-2018, 02:04 PM
unitink72 unitink72 is offline
 
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Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
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Default thanks

Ok Glad some more experienced eyes have looked it over. Now I feel better

Thanks for the ratchet tip. Its impossible for me to say no to new tools
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  #6  
Old 03-02-2018, 02:11 PM
WAM120RV WAM120RV is offline
 
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Location: Coventry. England
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Default Nice work

Ditto what the others have said, no need for torque seal on these. However, as the nut plate is designed to bite into the tread to lock it you could put some ACF 50 or grease to prevent corrosion because the nickel coating is taken off.

The screws are just nipped up bolts do not exceed th e normal torqu for that size of bolt.
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  #7  
Old 03-02-2018, 04:25 PM
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RV7A Flyer RV7A Flyer is offline
 
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It's my understanding that Torque-seal should NOT go on the threads...would be okay on the bolt head side, though.
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  #8  
Old 03-02-2018, 04:43 PM
leok leok is offline
 
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Funny you posted this question now. I did somehow strip out the same nut plate. It wasn't the threads of the bolt that informed me, it was that the bolt turned particularly hard, and never got even a little tight. Just continued turning. I turned it out and saw that the threads were almost all completely rolled. That bolt went in the trash. I tried another bolt with the same results. Only the second bolt's threads didn't have the deformation of the first, but continued turning.

I drilled the thing apart and replaced the nut plate. Threading the bolt in the new nut plate was typically stiff and snugged up just as expected. I think it was just a bad nut plate.
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  #9  
Old 03-02-2018, 05:41 PM
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Wunderon Wunderon is offline
 
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RV7A Flyer View Post
It's my understanding that Torque-seal should NOT go on the threads...would be okay on the bolt head side, though.
Agree, I avoid torque seal on threads themselves.

For this application, I don't think the torque seal would be visible from the wing inspection door, however the bolt heads are readily visible, which is where I applied it.
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  #10  
Old 03-02-2018, 05:58 PM
cczarnik cczarnik is offline
 
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Location: Middle TN
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Default

Off topic- so it looks like on the -10 the tie down block is riveted to the spar? On my -7 it?s bolted with lock nuts and it looks like the only way to retorque if I ever needed to would be to pull the tank on the right wing since there is no forward inspection access. I like the 10 better :-)
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