Connecter for Garmin Pitot tubes

[Bavafa]

Just wondering how most people plumb their pitot tube to the clear hose. The aluminum tubes are 3/16" OD and most push on type connectors are 1/4".

[Pat Hatch]

Originally Posted by Bavafa

Just wondering how most people plumb their pitot tube to the clear hose. The aluminum tubes are 3/16" OD and most push on type connectors are 1/4".

Here's one way: order a couple of SafeAir P-515 Female 1/8" NPT connectors from Stein for the plastic tube and use AN816-3D, AN818-3D, AN819-3D (nipple, nut, and sleeve) for the aluminum tube. I think it's the best way.

[ethand]

Not flying yet, but I purchased two of part number 51055K92 from McMaster as they are the fast on types and transition from 1/4" metal to the 3/16 colored tubes in the safe air kit.

Purchased based on research on VAF or some builders site (cannot find it now of course)

Seem to fit both ends well.

E

[Nova RV]

Stein has a drawing on this page showing the proper parts to get and how to assemble:
https://www.steinair.com/product/an819-3d-sleeve-316/

[PilotjohnS]

I plan to heat up the plastic and slide them on the metal tubes. Then use a little safegy wire to secure. QED

[9GT]

Originally Posted by PilotjohnS

I plan to heat up the plastic and slide them on the metal tubes. Then use a little safegy wire to secure. QED

I did the same on my RV-10 Dynon pitot and plan to do the same for the Garmin pitot on my -9A.

[Bavafa]

Lots of options and good suggestions but I think I like the McMaster part the best, not as cheap as heating up the tube but neater and easier for servicing, should it ever need to be done.

Thanks all for the good suggestions.

[Robert Anglin]

We got the Safe Air One tube kit and just cut a short link of tube, then RTV slipped it over the end of the pitot tube on the Garmin pitot. Then you just clip it on with the quick connectors from the kit and lay out your runs into the airframe. This makes it simple and serviceable with ease. Just what we did. Yours R.E.A. III # 80888

[Walt]

Originally Posted by PilotjohnS

I plan to heat up the plastic and slide them on the metal tubes. Then use a little safegy wire to secure. QED

Van's originally recommended (not sure if they still do) doing the same at the 'T' for the static ports, can't tell you how many of those I've had to cut off and redo during static leak checks because the line cracks.

Personally I like to use high temp silcone tubing on both lines with a reducer, never leaks and easy to remove when doing system maintenance/leak checks.

[PilotjohnS]

Originally Posted by Walt

Personally I like to use high temp silcone tubing on both lines with a reducer, never leaks and easy to remove when doing system maintenance/leak checks.

Walt, can you post a picture please?