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01-15-2018, 12:53 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Hermosa, SD
Posts: 7
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P60G2 spraying questions
Good afternoon VAF,
I'm hoping to not ignite the great primer debate with this question. I decided to go the SW P60g2 route with priming my RV-8. I already bought the two gallons so I'm really committed at this point. I haven't been able to practice spraying it on any scraps yet since I reside in the artic (South Dakota). We're actually doing well today since we have positive single digit highs. My first question is what temperature range does it need to be for it to be properly sprayed and cure? I can't seem to find any info on the forums or the 2 page data sheet online. If priming isn't an option, is there any issue with building on and priming (and riveting) later? Obviously a salt air environment isn't a concern here, but does some corrosion set in immediately no matter the location?
I picked up a HVLP kit from the local ABS store. It came with 3 different guns: 1.8 mm, 1.4 mm, and 1.0 mm. Which one would be the best for priming with the SW product?
I welcome any other advice from those that have gone before me. Any mistake averted is a win in my book.
Thanks in advance,
Dustin
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01-15-2018, 01:26 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRitz
Good afternoon VAF,
I'm hoping to not ignite the great primer debate with this question. I decided to go the SW P60g2 route with priming my RV-8. I already bought the two gallons so I'm really committed at this point. I haven't been able to practice spraying it on any scraps yet since I reside in the artic (South Dakota). We're actually doing well today since we have positive single digit highs. My first question is what temperature range does it need to be for it to be properly sprayed and cure? I can't seem to find any info on the forums or the 2 page data sheet online. If priming isn't an option, is there any issue with building on and priming (and riveting) later? Obviously a salt air environment isn't a concern here, but does some corrosion set in immediately no matter the location?
I picked up a HVLP kit from the local ABS store. It came with 3 different guns: 1.8 mm, 1.4 mm, and 1.0 mm. Which one would be the best for priming with the SW product?
I welcome any other advice from those that have gone before me. Any mistake averted is a win in my book.
Thanks in advance,
Dustin
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I have sprayed a lot of it but never at temps below about 60 F. in the shop.
A 1.4 tip does a good job.
The biggest benefit of priming tends to be protection of mating surfaces where moisture can stay trapped for extended periods. Spraying after assembly greatly reduces the value from the cost and effort in my opinion.
If you had to assembly without priming but wanted some protection I think you would be better off with a fogged in protectant (ACF-50, etc.)
Side tip - I have found over the years that some of the cans are thicker than others and that adding just 150% reducer wasn't enough. I always buy 2 gal of reducer for 1 gal of primer and mix 1.75:1, and sometimes even 2:1
__________________
Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.
Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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01-15-2018, 02:00 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Locust Grove, GA
Posts: 2,624
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I have the same experience as Scott. At low temps it can get stringy when you spray it, and it does require aggressive thinning.
A trick I found worked was to sit the spray gun AND parts in front of a infrared radiant heater. Both items would get warm and stay warm long enough for spraying. Just the act of spraying causes the temp of the fluid to decrease in temp, so warming it up helps. Just don't let it stay there too long so it gets too hot (fire hazard).
Vic
__________________
 Vic Syracuse
Built RV-4, RV-6, 2-RV-10's, RV-7A, RV-8, Prescott Pusher, Kitfox Model II, Kitfox Speedster, Kitfox 7 Super Sport, Just Superstol, DAR, A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor, CFII-ASMEL/ASES
Kitplanes "Unairworthy" monthly feature
EAA Sport Aviation "Checkpoints" column
EAA Homebuilt Council Chair/member EAA BOD
Author "Pre-Buy Guide for Amateur-Built Aircraft"
www.Baselegaviation.com
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01-15-2018, 05:15 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,931
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P60G2
I sprayed everything inside with P60G2. Thinned 1 part primer to 2 parts catalyst. Lots of it done down to 30 degrees outside by setting everything up and running parts and gun out just long enough to shoot. A few tips...
1. Take the primer to a nearby SW paint store or Ace and have them shake the bejesus out of it. Before use, stir the bejesus out of it.
2. Shoot just enough to see a color change. It's a very thin coat and darkens to a beautiful greenish gold hue.
I can give tons of advise. You may want to PM for phone number and call.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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01-16-2018, 07:44 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Hermosa, SD
Posts: 7
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Scott, Vic, Larry,
Thank you for the input and ideas. This initial learning curve is always intimidating but these tips will help.
Looking forward to seeing you all at an airport sometime in the future,
Dustin
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