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03-01-2007, 10:47 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Crestwood, KY
Posts: 848
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What type of solder used?
Is there a preference on what type of solder is used in airplane electrical systems? Preferred brands - contents - hazards?
Thanks in advance for replies.
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Mike
RV-9A Based K6I2
Flying - out of Phase 1
Building RV-12 with brother
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03-01-2007, 11:16 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Louisville, Ga
Posts: 7,840
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Non-acid
Hi Mike,
Generally 60/40 resin core but no acid-core solder. Soldering flux also helps the solder "wick" much better.
Regards,
__________________
Pierre Smith
RV-10, 510 TT
RV6A (Sojourner) 180 HP, Catto 3 Bl (502Hrs), gone...and already missed
Air Tractor AT 502B PT 6-15 Sold
Air Tractor 402 PT-6-20 Sold
EAA Flight Advisor/CFI/Tech Counselor
Louisville, Ga
It's never skill or craftsmanship that completes airplanes, it's the will to do so,
Patrick Kenny, EAA 275132
Dues gladly paid!
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03-01-2007, 11:41 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Roy, Utah
Posts: 1,141
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silver solder
I tried silver solder. Don't bother because most hobby soldering irons don't get hot enough to melt the solder. Stick with 60/40 tin/lead. Readily available.
Steve
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03-01-2007, 12:32 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Albany, GA for the moment
Posts: 294
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I've had great success with Kester 63/37 which you can get from digikey/mouser. I believe that Bob Nuckolls recommends this type.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
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03-01-2007, 02:57 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 469
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63/37 Rocks!
63/37 solder is unique in that it goes directly from the liquid state to the solid state without an intermediate "plastic" state, which is where you get into trouble. Any movement of the parts, however tiny, while the solder is passing through this plastic state will degrade the integrity of the joint. 60/40 has a very narrow plastic range, and obviously can work well, but why not order a pound of 63/37 Kester or Multicore from Mouser or Digikey as PJ suggested? It'll probably last you the rest of your life, and as Bob Nuckoll's likes to say "its the best we know how to do". I've got mine (actually I bought some Kester and some Multicore)  and I'm ready to fire up the soldering iron (when I'm not crimping, of course)  !
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William Slaughter
Houston, TX
RV-8QB
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03-01-2007, 04:26 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SoCal
Posts: 626
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solder is only one step to a good connection
William Slaughter is on the money for solder but I would be more concerned about wire prep for those new to wiring. Nicked wires or soldered connections without the proper support would seem to be a more important issue given their intermittent nature.
Many people I see seem to use solder as tack glue. They fail to properly wrap or crimp connections before soldering. If you take the position that the wire should wrap a connection or be crimped and that the solder is only used to flow the connection and make it airtight then life several years down the road will be better. This also goes with proper support of the wire where the solder ends.
Use an electronics rated solder and be sure to follow the directions of the manufacture of the connector.
__________________
JD
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RV-7 N314SY (KWHP)
IO-360-B1B
CANbus based trim/flaps and electrical
Last edited by jdeas : 03-01-2007 at 04:38 PM.
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03-01-2007, 06:16 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: NC25
Posts: 3,503
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If at all possible, stay away from solder. The stiff soldered wire can get brittle and break. It requires MORE support and is not the best solution for an aircraft electrical system.
If you must use solder, you want 63/37 solder as it does not have a plastic state. The three most important things about soldering is, Clean, Clean, Clean.
Here is some reading material.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles...ng_Started.pdf
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/rules/review.html
Bob Nuckles comments are in RED on an article written by someone else.
Headphone, mic, and 'Push Then Talk' buttons all will require solder. I also make my own solder sleaves (similar to what Bob Nuckles does with a "poor man's solder sleave") to terminate shieled wires.
I do not solder wires in an aircraft is there is another way to get the job done. This is from someone that had training to solder wires and terminals to standards for SPACE flight.
__________________
Gary A. Sobek
NC25 RV-6 Flying
3,400+ hours
Where is N157GS
Building RV-8 S/N: 80012
To most people, the sky is the limit.
To those who love aviation, the sky is home.
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03-02-2007, 04:23 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Crestwood, KY
Posts: 848
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Thanks for the replies
I have a set of the CreativAir LED position lights that I wll need to assemble at some point and wanted to know what solder I should be using.
I'm seriously thinking of taking a Sportair class on aircraft electrical work if one gets closer to me. I thought I saw where the EAA had classes in Indy last year but I don't see any for this year. Columbus OH seems to be the closest this year.
Thanks,
__________________
Mike
RV-9A Based K6I2
Flying - out of Phase 1
Building RV-12 with brother
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03-02-2007, 07:15 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SoCal
Posts: 626
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Digikey
Mike,
Digikey sells 63/37 Kester for $13-$14
Try www.digikey.com pt# KE1400-ND. While I would normally use 60/40 for PCB work this will do fine and as stated elsewhere in this thread is also suggested for soldering connectors.
It is a 'no clean' solder so a flux cleaner is not needed. That being said, I would use some alcohol to clean any flux seen on the board after assembly. While I have no data to support this, I clean any PCB used in rough environments for fear of moisture retention.
While ordering solder, it would also be a good time to get a new tip for that soldering iron

__________________
JD
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RV-7 N314SY (KWHP)
IO-360-B1B
CANbus based trim/flaps and electrical
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03-02-2007, 06:17 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 208
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Or Mouser
.. About the same price but no minimum order.
Mouser Page
John
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John Oldenkamp
RV-7A project for sale 
VAF Paid 2018
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